Welcome to our blog. Here we talk about everything related to Japanese JDM Engines and parts. We feature technical articles, turtorials and information about the different JDM engines available.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does ‘JDM’ stand for?
It stands for Japanese Domestic Market. The term is used by companies in Japan to refer to the local market for domestic goods and services, as opposed to the international, non-Japanese market. Within the automotive industry, this term most commonly refers to Japanese-brand automobiles and parts designed and constructed to conform to Japanese vehicle and equipment regulations and to suit Japanese market preferences.
Why do Japanese engines have low mileage?
All Japanese vehicles must pass a strict inspection every 2-3 years called ‘Shaken’. As vehicles get older, maintaining them at the standards required by the shaken can become expensive. This is because beyond the tuner scene, most Japanese do not get involved in mechanical repairs, and as a result, mechanics can charge high prices. Also driving a car in Japan can get expensive with tolls & parking fees. Most Japanese rely of public transportation to get around. As a result many low-mileage cars which are still in good condition are sold at auctions for export worldwide.
Top JDM Honda Engines
- Civic/CRX B16A 1st Gen VTEC Engine (88-91)
- Civic Si-R / Del Sol B16A 2nd Gen VTEC Engine (92-95)
- Civic SI-R B16A 3rd Gen VTEC Engine (96-00)
- Integra GS-R B18C VTEC Engine (94-01)
- Integra Type-R B18C VTEC Engine (96-01)
- RSX Type-R K20A VTEC Engine (01+)
Top JDM Nissan Engines
- Silvia S13 Red-Top SR20DET Turbo Engine (91-93)
- Silvia S14 SR20DET Turbo Engine (94-98)
- Silvia S15 SR20DET Turbo Engine (99-01)
- Skyline GTR R32 RB26DETT Twin Turbo Engine (89-94)
- 300ZX VG30DETT Twin Turbo Engine (90-93)
Overview
In order to properly cover every aspect this section will be broken down into many sections. First, its important to decide what you’re goals are. If you’re interested in running 15 second quarter miles without hassle or complication then finding a B16 is probably your best bet. Some of us are interested in running 11 and 12 second quarter miles. For this type of performance it’s important to plan every detail so that the engine is capable and reliable when asked to perform. Another part of planning that should be done before the swap begins is whether or the engine will be naturally aspirated or have forced induction. These are all questions that need to be answered before the swap so that you’re satisfied when everything is complete.
Finding the Proper Engine:
There are many engine choices for each vehicle so we’ll cover all of them. First it’s important to understand that On Board Diagnostics play a large role in which engines are easiest and recommended. All Honda’s 1991 and earlier are considered OBD 0. This means that the engines don’t utilize any oxygen sensors and have little in the way of emissions control. Next there are OBD 1 engines that are found in all cars from 1992-1995. These vehicles have traditionally been the best platform for the most “factory-like” hybrids. Finally, anything from 1996-1998 is OBD 2. 1999-2000 is OBD 2b. It’s also important to remember that its only legal to swap in engines of the same or newer OBD series. That is to say that an OBD2 engine can be placed into a 1988 CRX legally and without many wiring problems. Consequently its illegal in most states to use OBD 0 engines in cars that should have OBD1 or OBD2 power plants. Of course there are people who disregard these laws and regulations but its not recommended or necessarily that easy.
4th Generation:
1. ZC, D16A8, D16A9: Completely Bolt-In Swap.
Transmission: Use ZC/D16A8/D16A9 Tranny
Shift Linkage: Use stock Civic/CRX shift linkage
Axles: Stock Civic/CRX
Wiring: Retain stock harness
Upper Radiator Hose: stock
Lower Radiator Hose: stock
Throttle Cable: stock
*There may be clearance issues with the ZC, either a new hood, trimming of the old hood or trimming the valve cover is required.
2. B16A: Mount kit required
Transmission: S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1
Shift Linkage: Need adjustable shift linkage from Hasport or shortened shift linkage from 90-93 Integra
Axles: B16A Axles
Wiring: DX, LX, and Standard (dual point injection) models the wiring needs to be modified for port injection first. To use PR3 or PW0 four wires need to be added, VTEC, VTEC oil pressure, knock sensor and second O2.
Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit
Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit
Throttle Cable: 90 Integra
Clutch Cable: Stock
Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor.
Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance.
Emissions: Purge cutoff solenoid valve needs to be Teed into the fuel pressure regulator for vacuum source.
3. B18A: Mount kit required
Transmission: S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1
Shift Linkage: Need adjustable shift linkage from Hasport or shortened shift linkage from 90-93 Integra
Axles: B18B Axles
Wiring: For Si, EX, and HF (port injection) models modify the engine harness to fit. DX, LX, and Standard (dual point injection) models the wiring needs to be modified for port injection. Custom wiring harnesses are available for dual point injection applications from Hasport.
Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit
Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit
Throttle Cable: 90 Integra
Clutch Cable: Stock
Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor.
Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance.
OBD1-OBD2 Engine Swaps into 89-91 Civic/CRX
To install an OBD1-OBD2 engine into your 4th Generation Civic/CRX the following adjustments will need to be made. First, if your car has dual point injection a conversion will need to be made to port injection. All Integra’s 1994 and up and Civic’s 1992 and up all use hydraulic transmissions. Therefore its not compatible with 4th Gen Civic’s because these vehicles have cable transmissions. To complete the swap a B-series cable transmission will need to be used or a cable-hydro transmission conversion will need to be made. The left side bracket needs to be changed to a 1990-1993 Integra bracket.
For the ECU, it is best to use the ECU which belongs with the engine. Several wiring adjustments will need to be made to make the engine run correctly.
For LS-VTEC’s, CRVTEC’s and other Frankenstein’s it is easiest to use the ECU that corresponds to the distributor and head. There are also reprogrammed ECU’s which can be considered.
4. B17A/B16A2/B16A2/B16B: Mount kit required
Transmission: If your engine is a 92-93 B18A or B17A, the one that came with the engine, but for the other engines, any of the cable clutch operated B-series transmission including Japanese or American market S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1. Mounts: Hasport bolt in mount kit p/n #M88-B16-10. For 94 and up engines the timing belt side engine bracket will need to be changed for the 90-93 Acura bracket p/n #
ECU: B16A ECU/B17A
Axles: With a small amount of modification, the axles that come with the engines being transplanted (excluding the B20 engines) will work perfectly in most cases. The axles are from a 94 or later car, the left-hand transmission seal, the one for the intermediate shaft, should be changed for one from a 94 Integra, p/n #91205-PL3-A01.
Shift Linkage: Hasport custom linkage p/n #l88-B16-10 or shortened 90-93 Integra linkage.
Wiring: For these engines, you will want the injectors, ECU and distributor from the 89-91 B16A. If your car is an Si, HF, EX the stock harness can be easily modified to fit the engine. Then use Hasport conversion harness p/n #W88-Si-VTEC for the additional wires needed to run VTEC.
Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit
Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit
Throttle Cable: 90 Integra
Clutch Cable: Stock
Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor.
Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance.
B18C/B18C5: If your engine is a 92-93 B18A or B17A, the one that came with the engine, but for the other engines, any of the cable clutch operated B-series transmission including Japanese or American market S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1. Mounts: Hasport bolt in mount kit p/n #M88-B16-10. For 94 and up engines the timing belt side engine bracket will need to be changed for the 90-93 Acura bracket.
Axles: With a small amount of modification, the axles that come with the engines being transplanted (excluding the B20 engines) will work perfectly in most cases. Click here to see the modification needed. If the axles are from a 94 or later car, the left-hand transmission seal, the one for the intermediate shaft, should be changed for one from a 94 Integra, p/n #91205-PL3-A01.
Shift Linkage: Hasport custom linkage p/n #l88-B16-10 or shortened 90-93 Integra linkage.
Wiring: For this engine, you will want the injectors and distributor from the 89-91 B16A. If your car is an Si, HF, EX the stock harness can be easily modified to fit the engine. Then the VTEC and air intake bypass can be hooked up with the addition of only two wire to the ECU and one to ignition power. For dual point injected motors, Hasport sells a conversion harness to help.
Upper Radiator Hose: 94+ GSR, trim to fit
Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit
Throttle Cable: 94+ GSR or Type R
Clutch Cable: Stock
Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor.
Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance.
5th Generation
1. B16A2/3: Completely bolt-in Swap, VTEC needs to be wired, SIR II, Hasport shift linkage. Del Sol VTEC for the del sol
2. B18B: Completely bolt-in swap, SIR II, Hasport shift linkage. Del Sol VTEC for the del sol
3. B17A: Completely bolt-in swap, cable-hydro transmission kit(not recommended) or hydraulic b-series transmission, VTEC needs to be wired.
4. B18C1: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired.
5. B18C5: Completely bolt-in swap, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired.
6. B16B: Completely bolt-in swap, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired.
7. H22A: Mount kit required, Hasport shift linkage, VTEC needs to be wired.
8. B16A: Not recommended! Too much work, more costly compared to B16A2/3′s.
9. D16Z6: Completely bolt in, VTEC needs to be wired.
10. D16Y8: Completely bolt in, VTEC needs to be wired.
6th Generation
1. B18C1: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired.
2. B16A2: Completely bolt in swap, VTEC needs to be wired.
3. B16A3: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired, OBD Conversion.
4. B18C5: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired.
5. B18B1: Completely bolt-in swap.
6. B16B: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired.
7. H22A: Mount kit required, Hasport shift linkage, VTEC needs to be wired.
8. D16Z6: Completely bolt-in, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired.
9. D16Y8: Completely bolt-in, VTEC needs to be wired.
7th Generation
1. K20A2: Completely bolt-in swap, shift linkage needs to be modified.
K24: Mostly bolt-in swap, found in the 2002+ CRV, shift linkage needs to be modified.
General info on swaps and prices
The ZC is widely regarded as the easiest engine to swap into 4th Generation Civics. The positive aspects of this engine include the price; DOHC design, availability and both engines are directly bolt in. The ZC is a Japanese Domestic Market engine and was featured in the CRX Si. And because this engine is D-series it will work with all D-series cable transmissions. The price for these motors can range from 500-750 depending on the source and condition with the transmission being optional. The Si transmission has the best gear ratio and will provide the best acceleration. Other choices include the DX and HF transmissions although the HF transmission is not well suited for high performance driving. Using the ZC transmission makes this swap slightly more complex. First, the axles and intermediate shaft need to be from the ZC or D16A1/3 setup. The computer and On Board Diagnostic’s are all OBD 0 and there are several ECU’s that can be used. These include the D16A6 ECU (Si), D16A1/3 (Integra), and or the ZC ECU. All have similar fuel cutoffs and with a stock drive train little power will be made above 7000rpm.
The D16Z6 is another inexpensive option that can be installed without much trouble. This motor will bolt right in and can be found for around 600-800 dollars. The positive aspects of this engine include VTEC, availability, and price. Usually with this setup the d16 long block is mated with a cable d-series transmission. There are several options with the ECU. Either the D16Z ECU is used, or the stock ECU is retained and a VTEC controller added. *Remember, all 4th Generation Honda’s use cable transmissions while 5th and 6th Generation Honda’s use hydraulic transmissions.
The B16A2/3 is the most popular swap and probably yields the best power for the cost. First generation B16′s usually cost around 1200-1500 minus the cost of engine mounts. It is important to note that this engine will NOT bolt directly into a 4th generation engine bay. Aftermarket engine mounts from Hasport, Place Racing or self-fabricated mounts will need to be used. The first generation B16 also came stock with a cable transmission and for the complete swap the axles, intermediate shaft, and ECU will be needed.
The B16B is a Japanese Domestic Motor and isn’t very popular because of its smaller displacement and price tag. This engine was found in 1998 Civic Type R’s and has a design similar to the B18C5. Its intake cam is slightly more aggressive and its compression is slightly higher. However, because of this engine’s smaller displacement there it offers less torque. Therefore this engine offers little improvement over a B18C1 and when comparing price tags this engine is quickly dismissed. This engine comes with the same transmission as the ITR and has LSD. If the B16B can be purchased for less than 4000 it would be a great deal. Unfortunately its nearly impossible to find this engine that cheap and its recommended that a B16/B18 is purchased instead.
The B18C1 came in USDM Acura Integra GSR’s between the years of 1994-2001. This engine has 170 horsepower and 128lbs of torque, which makes for a very fast daily driven car. For this swap the shift linkage, axles, and ECU will all be needed. Another important aspect of this swap that should be considered is the year of the engine. Post 1995 engines are all OBD2 and this can make for an easier swap. However, its also important to realize that switching a car from OBD1 and OBD2 or vice versa is not as complicated as it sounds. Skunk2 and other companies even make a conversion harness that makes the wiring completely push and plug.
The B17A is widely considered the “black sheep” of Honda B-series engines. This engine came in 1992-1993 Acura Integra GSR’s and came with 160hp. However, the increased displacement compared to the B16 added 6 lbs of torque bringing its overall total to 117. To make this swap more complicated it’s important to realize that this transmission is cable, not hydraulic, and its OBD is 1. Therefore, a cable to hydro transmission switch is required or the other option finding a hydraulic transmission. However, this engine is a viable option in 4th Generation Civic’s and should be considered if found. All that’s needed is a mount kit offered by Place Racing or Hasport. Usually these engines are rare and very few engine distributors are selling the B17 due to its unusual characteristics. Prices should range between 1800-2400 for this engine.
The B18C5 came standard in 1997-2001 Integra Type R’s. These engines are the highest performance B-series engine offered in the United States and carry the largest price tag. Compared a B18C1 these engines have higher performance camshafts, a lighter valve train and higher compression. In addition its intake manifold is designed for high-end horsepower, which does sacrifice some low-end torque. All of this amounts to 195 horsepower and 128 lbs of torque. The ITR transmission is the most highly sought after transmission coming standard with LSD and having the best final drive. Also, due to the age of these motors and their capability their price ranges between 4600 and 5200.
The H22A is found in Prelude VTEC’s and JDM Accord’s. This engine comes with 190-220 horsepower and is not considered a great candidate for Civic’s and Integra’s because of its larger size and weight. Hasport and other companies are making a mount kit for this engine but the geometry of the car is changed dramatically. (The engine and transmission are 85lbs heavier than a GSR motor) However, with the right suspension and some weight reduction the front end can be lightened to the point where the car will be drivable. The benefit’s from this engine is its increased low end torque. Unfortunately its very difficult to retain air conditioning and room in the engine bay is at a minimum. Plus, the H-series engines have a poor rod/stroke ratio which translates into less revving capability and less potential with high end horsepower. Overall, this swap is not recommended although it can be done.
The D16Y8 is found in 96+ Civic EX’s and Del Sol Si’s. This engine is very similar to the D16Z6 but has 2 more horsepower and a square combustion chamber for an increase in compression due to the extra queche area. However, its OBD2 instead of OBD1.
The “Mini-Me” is a hybrid engine that produces around 135hp. This setup is usually made from a DX(1.5liter) bottom end and D16Z6 or D16Y8 VTEC head. Because of the 1.5-liter’s excellent rod-stroke ratio this little beast will make power to 8000rpm. Another interesting characteristic is the increased compression that results from this setup. Overall this engine is great for those who have some experience with engine building and can acquire the VTEC head for a good price.
For information on LS/VTEC and CR/VTEC, view our article int he FAQ section.
The K20A2 comes standard in the Acura RSX Type-S. This engine has 200 horsepower and 142lbs of torque and can be bolted into the new Civic Si. However, the Type-S has a 6-speed gear box while the Civic Si comes standard with a 5-speed. There are two ways to account for this change, one is to retain the Civic Si’s transmission while the second is modifying the Civic Si’s shift linkage so the 6 speed transmission can be used.
Source: HondaSwap.com
The following shows a good way to remove your motor. There are plenty of other ways to do it, but this is what we have found to be the easiest way. Remeber, practice safety precautions at all times. Good luck.
WARNING
*Make sure jacks and safety stands are placed properly and host brackets are attached to the correct position on the engine.
*Make sure the vehicle will not roll off stands and fall while you are working under it.
CAUTION
*Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surface.
*Unplug the wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector portion to avoid damage.
*Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also be sure that they do not contact other wiring or hoses or interfere with other parts.
TOOLS NEEDED
* 8mm(1/4 drive
* 10mm(1/4 or 3/8 drive)
* 12mm(3/8 drive)
* 14mm(3/8 or 1/2 drive)
* 17mm(1/2 drive)
* 19mm(1/2 drive)
* 32mm(1/2 drive impact) sockets.
* Breaker bar
* 1/4 ratchet
* 3/8 ratchet
* 1/2 ratchet
* various extensions
* phillips screwdriver
* slotted screw driver
* 8mm punch
* ball joint separator
* hammer
* needle nose pliers
* jack stands
* jack
* engine hoist
* chain
TIPS:
Listed below are the basic steps to removing an engine. Obviously each person will take their own steps in removing an engine depending on previous experience and personal judgment. Some important tips that will help for first timers are as follows. When removing the roll pin from the shift linkage it is important to use an 8mm drift or an 8mm bolt. Air hammers also work really well if air tools are available. Another difficult aspect of the swap can include breaking the axle nuts. Make sure the socket being used is an impact socket (regular sockets can be used, however don’t be surprised if one is broken) and use plenty of leverage. Obviously the car’s wheels must be on the ground with the emergency brake set so the car is stationary. Other tips will be added accordingly as I’m sure I haven’t covered everything. Good luck!
Beginning the Swap:
1. Secure the hood as open as possible.
2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then positive terminal. Remove the battery.
3. Remove the strut brace. (for cars that have one)
4. Disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box and battery positive terminal.
5. Remove the battery and battery base.
6. Disconnect the connectors from the ECM/PCM.
7. Disconnect the main wire harness connector.
8. Remove the air intake duct and air cleaner housing. Remove the resonator and intake air duct. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector. (OBD1 motors and older will not have the IAT sensor.
9. Disconnect the engine wire harness connector on the left side of the engine compartment.
10. Relieve fuel pressure.
11. Remove the (EVAP) control canister hose and fuel feed hose.
12. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, fuel return hose and vacuum hose.
13. Remove the throttle cable and loosening the locknut, then slip the cable end out of the accelerator linkage.
*NOTE: Take care not to bend the cable when removing it. Always replace any kinked cable with a new one.
14. Disconnect the connectors from the PCM.
15. Remove the grommet and wire harness clamps, then pull out the ECM/PCM connectors.
16. Remove the mounting bolt and lock bolt, then remove the power steering pump belt and pump.
17. Loosen the idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the air conditioning compressor belt.
18. Remove the transmission ground cable and hose clamp.
19. Remove the clutch slave cylinder and line/hose assembly (M/T).
20. Remove the shift cable (CVT).
21. Disconnect the power steering pressure switch connector, and remove the wire harness clamp.
22. Remove the radiator cap. (If car is hot, use caution)
23. Raise the hoist to full height.
24. Remove the front tires/wheels and splash shield.
25. Drain the engine coolant. Loosen the drain plug in the radiator.
26. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer.
27. Drain the engine oil. Reinstall the drain bolt using a new washer.
28. Remove the shift rod and extension rod, commonly referred to as the shift linkage.
29. Remove the AC Compressor.
30. Remove the catalytic converter/exhaust pipe.
31. Remove the damper forks.
32. Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joints.
33. Remove the driveshafts.
34. Lower the hoist.
35. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and heater hoses.
36. Attach the chain hoist to the engine.
37. Remove the left and right front mount and bracket.
38. Remove the rear mount bracket.
39. Remove the upper bracket.
40. Remove the transmission mount bracket, then remove the transmission mount.
41. Check that the engine/transmission is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel and coolant hoses and electrical wiring.
42. Slowly raise the engine approximately 150mm. Check once again that all hoses and wires are disconnected from the engine/transmission.
43. Raise the engine all the way, and remove it from the car.
That should have your motor out from the bay. Again, take your time with it and make sure everything is unplugged and drained before you remove it. It will make everything cleaner and smoother. Good Luck!
Source: HondaSwap.com
Non-recommended Swaps
Not all motors work well, or at all, in every chassis. In addition, some DO fit and work, but are still not recommended. Most of this comes down to OBD again. If you haven’t read our article on OBD yet, do so before reading the rest of this article.
4th gen
* D16Y7/8
* B16A2 (USDM)
* B16A3
* 96+ B18C
* 96+ B18B
* B18C5
* any H-series
* any C-series motor
We don’t recommend these motors for several reasons. The H-series will require much chassis denting, and while that may be cool to do on a race car, it makes your bay look like crap and can lead to a weaker engine bay. In addition, you wont have room for A/C or power steering if those options are required by you.The other motors are OBD-2, requiring a much greater challenge in wiring. The B- and D-series OBD-2 motors can be installed into the chassis fairly easily with a mount kit, but as stated above, the wiring is an absolute nightmare.
5th gen
* B16A SiR
* B17A
* B18A
* ZC/D16A6/8/9
* any C-series motor
We don’t recommend these motors for several reasons as well. These motors are OBD-0, making it a hard swap into a car wired for OBD-1. It is easier to go backwards (as in, taking a 5th gen motor into a 4th gen chassis) than forwards. Remember, its all about backwards compatibility, not forwards.
While we haven’t listed the H-series motors as a non-recommended swap, we would like to say a few words about it. An H-series motor is generally 60-80 lbs heavier than a B-series motor. This adds to the already poor F/R weight distribution of Civics/Integra’s. While it can be solved with a set of stiffer springs and tighter shocks up front, it is still not a good choice for an AutoX or road course car. For drag, it excels. It’s heavier, putting more weight on the front wheels to help with traction. In addition to the weight factor, the chassis will need to be modified a little bit to fit it. Some things on the fire wall will need to be moved (such as brake master cylinder) off the wall. The drivers side quarter panel will also need to be dented in a little bit so the crank pulley doesn’t rub.
6th gen
* B16A SiR
* B16A3
* B17A
* B18A
* 94-95 B18C
* 94-95 B18B
* ZC/D16A6/8/9
* any C-series motor
The reasons for these motors is similar to the 5th gen’s, only now we include OBD-1 in the list. When you own an OBD-2 chassis, the easiest swaps are OBD-2 motors.
The same general principles apply for the H-series motors as listed in the 5th gen’s explanation.
7th gen
* any B-series motor
* any D-series motor <2001
* any C-series motor
* any H-series motor
* any F-series motor
The new Civic’s share the i-VTEC and mounting patterns of the RSX. Neither chassis will accept an older motor. The standard D17 in the Civic or the K20 in the Civic Si/RSX are the new platforms of which Honda hybrid making will be in the future.
Source: HondaSwap.com
B-series Transmissions
In response to recent questions about different transmissions I think its important to shed some light into the ones available for our b-series motors. There are many differences between B-series transmissions and I’ve never found an article describing the positives and negatives of each unit. Below, you’ll see transmission codes, the car it’s found in, and whether or not it has factory LSD. It’s important to realize that Honda didn’t make it easy for us to distinguish between transmissions. For example, almost all transmissions found in Integra’s are stamped S80. This includes the tall LS transmission and the ultra short JDM Type-R transmission. In some cases, the only way to determine which transmission you really have is to take it apart and count the number of teeth on the ring gear. Obviously, in most cases it’s not practical to take your transmission apart to determine which one you have. To be safe when acquiring a transmission, you should identify the seller; try to identify the car and or motor it came with.
B16A (Cable), B16A2 (Hydro), B16A3(Hydro):
S4C, S80, Y80, Y21, Y1 (optional LSD)
As most of you know the B16A was featured in Japan between the years of 1989 through 2001. This engine has had several different transmissions mated to it causing some potential confusion.
First, it’s important to realize that first generation B16A’s came with cable transmissions. The Y1 came with optional factory LSD and should have LSD stamped on the transmission. Determining whether or not a transmission has LSD is very simple, just look into the differential and see if its opened or closed. For those not familiar with this, you’ll either see a set of gears that form a closed cylinder, or you’ll see an open differential with a bar splitting the middle.
Typically these transmissions have had weak synchro’s in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears with 3rd gears crunching the most. Its also worth noting that all of the transmissions minus the Y1 have very weak open differentials making it essential that you upgrade if your putting a lot of power to the ground.
As far as gearing, these transmissions are all pretty short. Here is a listing of the gear ratios and final drive, courtesy of www.bseries.net.
1st: 3.230
2nd: 2.105
3rd: 1.458
4th: 1.107
5th: 0.848
Reverse: 3.000
Final Drive: 4.400
In conclusion, this transmission is good for all motor and should bring between 500-700 if its hydraulic while cable transmissions are worth between 400-600. Please be careful that the transmission you’re buying doesn’t have bad synchro’s because a lot of them have been beaten on and this is the first problem you’ll have. Plus, if you’re making a lot of power, 170 to the wheels, be prepared to replace your differential because these can be broken with regularity.
B16B (Hydraulic):
S4C (LSD)
The transmission found in the Civic Type R is highly sought after and very rare. Its gear ratio’s are identical to that of the B16A’s but has a stronger limited slip and dual synchro’s in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears. Expect to pay between 1000-1200 for a genuine CTR transmission because they’re rare and well worth the price. Its also worth mentioning that these transmissions are Hydraulic type.
B17A1 (Cable):
YS1
This transmission is found on the rare “blacksheep” of b-series motors. The most important feature here is that its cable-type. This means you can bolt this into any 93 and older integra and 91 and older civic without having to change to hydraulic. The synchro’s on this transmission are still considered weak, however the gearing is very good for all motor applications as its identical to the B16A transmissions. Finally, this transmission did not have factory LSD, so keep that in mind when someone is trying to tell you otherwise. Look to pay between 400-600 dollars for this transmission, although its going to be difficult to find and usually when you do, there is something wrong with it.
B18A1 (Cable):
YS1
Again, you’ll see how Honda didn’t help us out any with the stamping on this transmission. These transmissions however, are much different in there gearing. This transmission has a longer first and second gear with slightly longer 3rd and 4th gears. The final drive is still 4.40:1 making this a possibility for all motor applications, but not your best choice. You’ll be able to find this transmission in 90-93 Integra’s and they’re all cable-type. The prices for these should range between 200-400 for clean, good working units. Paying anymore is pointless, as these transmissions are everywhere.
B18B1 (Hydro):
S80/Y80
This is probably the easiest b-series transmission to find because it’s found in every non-VTEC 94-01 Integra. Most notably, this transmission is the longest of all b-series transmissions and has the weakest synchro’s and weakest differential. The final drive is 4.266:1 and each of the gears is longer compared to its B16A counterparts. For boost, a lot of people like the gearing of this transmission, plus gas mileage is great and they’re very cheap. Look to pay no more than 500 for a clean LS tranny because they’re everywhere.
Here is a look at the Specs.
1st: 3.230
2nd: 1.90
3rd: 1.269
4th: 0.966
5th: 0.714
Reverse: 3.000
Final Drive: 4.266:1
B18C:
S80/Y80 (Optional LSD)
The transmission found in JDM GSR’s is very popular and overall an excellent transmission. For all motor and boost applicatiosn this transmission has excellent gearing and a stronger differential compared to its B16A and B18B counterparts. The transmissions with LSD should have “LSD” stamped on the casing and to make sure, inspect the differential and use the parameters I described before to identify whether or not the transmission really has LSD. Look to pay between 700-1200 for this transmission depending on whether its LSD equipped. Also worth mentioning, these transmissions are all hydraulic.
Here is a look at the specs:
1st: 3.230
2nd: 1.900
3rd: 1.360
4th: 1.034
5th: 0.787
Reverse: 3.000
Final Drive: 4.400
B18C1:
Y80
This transmission is found in all USDM GSR’s. Although LSD was not offered these transmissions are still highly sought after because of their stronger differentials and optimal gearing. For those not interested in ultra-short gearing this transmission provides the perfect balance between acceleration and top end. Look to pay around 700-1000 for these transmissions.
The specs are the same as above:
1st: 3.230
2nd: 1.900
3rd: 1.360
4th: 1.034
5th: 0.787
Reverse: 3.000
Final Drive: 4.400
B18C5:
S80 (Helical LSD)
This transmission is one of the best B-series transmissions Honda has offered in its vehicles. Every gear has dual synchro’s and the gearing is perfect for all motor applications. Plus, LSD is standard and will be stamped on the housing. Look to spend between 1200-1400 for these transmissions because of their quality, LSD, age and gear ratio’s. Finally, if there is some question about whether or not you’re S80 has 4.4 final drive or 4.7 final drive you can check the transmission housing. The code “4jhd” means 4.4 final drive was offered as original equipment, while “ne3″ signifies 4.78 final drive.
The specs are below:
1st: 3.230
2nd: 2.105
3rd: 1.458
4th: 1.107
5th: 0.848
Reverse: 3.000
Final Drive: 4.400
B18C (JDM Type R):
S80 (Helical LSD)
JDM Type R transmissions are the best for all motor applications where acceleration is emphasized most. All 98 and up JDM Type R transmissions came with 4.785 final drive with the same 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears as the USDM Type R. To make highway driving more tolerable, the 4th and 5th gears are the same as GSR transmissions. Look to spend between 1400-1600 for these transmissions because of their final drive and rarity.
Here is a look at the specs:
1st: 3.230
2nd: 2.105
3rd: 1.458
4th: 1.034
5th: 0.787
Reverse: 3.000
Final Drive: 4.785
Source: Chet Hewitt @ Hondaswap.com
JDM Honda Prelude H22A DOHC VTEC Engine
Motor Code: H22A
Chassis Code: BB4-BB6
Displacement: 2195
Power: 200hp @ 6800rpm
Torque: 151 lb. ft. @ 6500rpm
Compression: 10.6:1
Bore: 87mm
Stroke: 90.7mm
Ignition: Direct
Cam: DOHC
Cylinders: 4
VTEC: Yes
Production: 1992-2001 JDM Honda Prelude
Special Features: None
Target Car |
Source Engine |
Parts required from source engine |
| 97-01 Honda Prelude 98-01 Honda Accord(4cyl.) |
H22A 92-96* | Requires engine, ECU and OBD2 to OBD1 wiring jumper harness. |
| F20B 97-01 H22A-S 97-01 H22A 97-01 |
Requires engine and ECU. |
*Will not work with ATTS models
Target Car |
Source Engine |
Parts required from source engine |
| 92-96 Honda Prelude 90-97 Honda Accord |
H22A 92-96 | Requires engine and ECU. |
| F20B VTEC 97-01 H22A-S 97-01 H22A 97-01 |
Requires engine, ECU and OBD1 to OBD2 wiring jumper harness. |
JDM RSX Type-R iVTEC K20A Engine
Motor Code: K20A
Chassis Code: DC5
Displacement: 1995
Power: 220hp @ 8000rpm
Torque: 145 lb. ft. @ 7000rpm
Compression: 11.5:1
Bore: 86mm
Stroke: 86mm
Ignition: Direct
Cam: DOHC
Cylinders: 4
VTEC: Yes
Production: 2001-2007 JDM Honda Integra Type-R (DC5)
Special Features: 6-Speed Manual LSD Transmission
The short answers is yes but there’s a couple things you need to make sure of.
1. The engine must be the same year or newer than the vehicle.
2. The engine must be from the same type of vehicle (passenger car, light-duty truck, heavy-duty truck, etc.) based on gross vehicle weight.
3. If the vehicle is a California certified vehicle then the engine must also be a California certified engine.
4. All emissions control equipment must remain on the installed engine.
For some more info on this read this thread, http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=199946
