Nissan Turbo Identification

The “BIG” turbochargers

HKS GT2835

This is probably the most common twin turbo setup, these are pretty big twin turbos, about the size of a TS04 0.58 for each turbo, but most often they come with 0.70 exhaust housings… I would switch these with 0.63s personally, unless you are a glutton for lag, with the stock housings they make full boost in the early 5k range with cams. You do have quite a bit of potential here, I believe you can make 800 rwhp on the HKS GT2835s with the proper setup, which is PLENTY of power. With the smaller housings, you can probably have 700 rwhp with lag in the mid 4k range, which is quite a bit too. Very nice setup, but insanely expensive for what you get, almost twice as expensive as the RPS kits.

Turbonetics T70, T72, and T76

These turbos are similar to the T66, but bigger. Most of the T70s are pretty similar to the T66, although they have a slightly bigger turbine wheel. This allows them to make somewhat more power, but at the cost of somewhat more lag. A T70 is good for probably 30-50 rwhp more than a comparable T66, but has about 2-300 rpm more lag. T72 is correspondingly bigger, it uses a different compressor and turbine wheel setup, and allows for significantly more power, but quite a bit more lag. Supposedly capable of 800-900 rwhp, the T72 makes full boost in the low/mid 5k range. I haven’t heard of anyone using the T76 as this is simply too big a turbocharger, it would make TONS of power, but probably not make full boost till ~6k rpm. RPS sells kits with all of these turbos, although I believe that the T72 and T76 have to be special ordered.

Greddy T78 and T88

These turbos are made by mitsubishi and modified by Greddy, the T78 uses a TD07 exhaust housing with a TD08 compressor, T88 has TD08 on both sides. T78 is capable of an insane amount of power, at the cost of monumental lag, although with a stock motor, the T78 may make full boost in the mid 4k range with proper tuning. T78 can make ~750 rwhp on the turbo alone if tuned right, you do need electronics, a higher rev limiter, cams, probably headwork… T88 is good for maybe 20% more power… this is one of the few turbos that is theoretically capable of flowing enough air to approach 900 rwhp, although you would need a SERIOUS engine build up to do this. Ara from NJ has run 141 mph traps with a T78 w/o bottle, Humberto has run 9.8@14x with T78 with nitrous, and a number of other people use the T78 as well, mainly because its quite inexepensive today, selling for under $4k. The downside to the T78 and T88 is that they need ALOT of work to get them working to their potential, and they lag into the low/mid 5k range for the T78 and even more with the T88, a car with this turbo is almost non-streetable in my opinion.

HKS GT3037

These are the biggest twin turbos available from HKS as far as I know. Craig Paisley uses this setup, as does the UPRD car. This is one of those turbos that should have a tag on it that says “DO NOT USE WITHOUT NITROUS” in my opinion. You will probably see lag in the ~6500 rpm range, which is fine for the strip, with nitrous, but for a streetable car? remember the supra’s stock rev limiter is 6800 rpm, although obviously you would raise it if you had these turbos… These turbos are probably capable of 1000-1100 rwhp w/o nitrous, but you need headwork, internals, fuel system, and probably lots of other custom stuff to use these turbos, don’t do it unless you have nearly infinite money.

Fastrax T51 and T55

The T51 is similar to the HKS T-51R, but makes boost somewhat faster. As far as I can tell, this turbo spools like a T66, but makes quite a bit more power. You will obviously need a fuel system to go with this, along with cams. This turbo is borderline streetable, it spools quick enough to drive around, but makes alot of power, even at low boost levels, so you have to be careful there, I can live with the small amount of lag it has, some people might not be able to.

The T55 is quite a bit bigger turbo than the T51, probably good for around 900 rwhp on the turbo alone, but quite a bit laggier too, I wouldn’t really consider this a streetable turbo, it should probably be for the track only, like some of the other big turbos, although its not QUITE as laggy as the biggest T88. You will need built internals, cams, fuel, etc… to do this correctly.

T04/TS04 setup

A couple people have done this, the most famous of which is Vinny Ten of Performance Factory in his 8 second supra, with twin TS04 (0.50 A/R>. Supposedly good for 930 rwhp on turbo alone, it most likely has insane lag, but noone really knows, obviously this isn’t a totally streetable setup, Vinny’s car is race stripped and back-halved. He also uses a distributor based ignition system. This setup takes alot of custom work, I would consider it only if you are willing to withstand a signficiant amount of lag, quite a bit of downtime for your car, and have alot of funds to work with.

Powerhouse Racing Turbos

Jarrett Humphries informs that the Powerhouse Single turbo kit makes around 630 rwhp and 645 tq with full boost by 4200 rpm. This turbo is based on the T61BB, and people have gotten great results out of them, he says one of his customers ran 10.3@139 w/o bottle on stock motor/heads with the kit. Never ridden in a PHR powered car, but they have had a great track record. Jarrett also sells a twin turbo setup based on the HKS GT2835s, not sure of their performance, although we should see shortly, as someone locally is installing them, they are supposed to make boost in the low 4k range and make 700+ rwhp, we shall see. Both of these kits use HKS manifolds with high quality aftermarket fittings and lines.

SP90, Y2K, T100

This year, a number of drag only turbos have come out… the SP90 is a turbo used on 7 second doorslammer grand nationals and mustangs, although it is supposed to spool up pretty fast, I kinda doubt that. I would imagine this turbo makes boost in the 6-7k range, but its capable of 1400 rwhp… the Y2K is a huge turbo as well, MVP/PHR made ~1200 rwhp with this turbo w/ alcohol. The T100 has never been used on a import to my knowledge, but it would be capable of well over 1500 rwhp.

Information Source: sr20det.nismo.org/bigturbos.htm

How Do I Tell If My Ecu Is For A 5 Speed Or Auto?

This will work for usdm OBD-1 ECUs:

Read the code on it. The 2nd to last # on an automatic ECU will have a 5.
If it is anything but a five then it is a manual ECU.

Jdm OBD-1 ECUs:

Reade the code on it.. if the last 3 digits are 900 or 901 it is an automatic ECU.

Information Source: www.hondaswap.com

How to rewire VTEC in your Honda

Ok, assuming you have a vtec motor in a non vtec car and you need to wire in vtec y0! here it is…

Our demonstrator model is a 95 CX with a OBD I B16A. So you have your motor in the car, and you are using XXXX engine harness, as long as you have the plugs (usually come with motors harness, even JDM, just remove the whole thing from sensor/solenoid, to canon plug from the harness)) you’re good. First you need to run the wires…

BLU/BLK and GRN/YEL from here…

To the canon plugs (shock tower connectors)…

Now, if you are using the vtec harness there’s no need to remove them as there should be nothing plugged into the connector on the other side (on a vtec car, such as a VX, or 92-93, this part is over, as it will have them already) the wires should match up to empty slots. But if there is something on the other side, simply remove them (vtec wires) to an empty slot with nothing on the otherside. For the cabin side of the canon plug, you need to get the pin from the canon plug, to the ECU (junkyard). you need to get enough pins from a junker to connect whatever you are connecting.

Anyway now you have the wires going from the vtec solenoid, to the canon plug and out the other side (note, I have both YEL/BLK, be smart and use different colors so you don’t have to guess which is which at the ECU)…

Now, make sure the wire coming out of the cabin side of the canon plugs is long enough to go through the firewall, and to the ECU.

For the ECU connections same as the canon plugs, you need to acquire the pins. You can pull these out of a junker also. All the pins from the same generation are the same (there are two different sizes in each plug, you’ll be using the smaller ones), and I was told that they are all the same from any model, and probably all generations, but I won’t swear to it.

Here’s how to remove the pins from the ECU…

*** picture coming soon ***

If you want to take the time, you can pull the wire al the way from the ECU plug, to the canon plug, but I just splice a couple together, it saves a lot of time.

Here is what you should have…

The ECU slots on the non vtec models should have nothing in place, just a hole. At this point you should know where the pins go BLU/BLK (in the engine harness, maybe different if you used a different color wire) to D6, GRN/YEL (same as the other) to A4, so what are you waiting for, plug them in already…

Any time you need to splice wires together, I suggest soldering them when done, if you can’t, at least use a good male/female plug, I like these… (soldering your wires…no, really, do it)

Now, you should have vtec y0!, drive around let your car warm up and then let it rip (provided you aren’t still throwing a CEL code). If everything is kosher, bolt in your ECU, wrap everything up, and blend it into your harness for that nice clean look.

You can also by pass the canon plug, and run a hardwire all the way from sensor to ECU, this works to, but doesn’t look as clean.

Here is some more wiring pics, to give you some ideas. In the first one, I am using a VX harness (5 wire o2) on a B16A (four wire o2) in a CX (1 wire o2) so I had some issues . Anyway, after figuring out what wires were what, I used my handy connectors and connected…

For the switched 12V, I used the plug full of YEL/BLKs on the driver side, that goes to the main relay (thanks Poison), and spliced into one of the wires, then ran it to the o2 taping it into the harness once it was all connected, running right…

If anyone found a mistake, or has something to add feel free. I hope this can help someone that like me isn’t real confident in their wiring abilities. All in all you are only limited by how much work you want to do. You can go for a quick get it going job, or undo your whole harness and rebuild it better than OEM.

A funny antidote that happened during this, so, my car even though it was a CX had a VX motor in it, so it was wired for vtec, sort of. Anyway there was no vtec kicking in, and I was throwing CEL 21, so I looked, and realized the guy that had swapped in the VX motor, had mix up the vtec wires, so I unplugged the canon plug and made sure what was where, and undid the wires, and switch the two of them right. Well, I get in the car and go to start it, and it’s cranking, but nothing, like it has no fuel. So I was like “fuck” pull the codes. I get 6, 15, 21, 41, so I am thinking that switching the wires really screwed something up, so I go and re wire them like they were, and am looking at it, and then realize, duh, I didn’t plug the canon plug back in , So I plug it in and get no codes, I was right, they were backwards, so I went for a cruise to make sure all CELs were gone, hammered it, and all is good.

Information Source: Hondaswap.com (http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/how-wire-vtec-40811/)

Identifying the Honda B16A Engine

Which is Which
Beginner’s guide to telling apart B16A motors

by Adrian Teo
10/06/1999

 

With all the misinformation that has been passed around by word-of-mouth and the internet, quite a few individuals have made the mistake of buying the wrong B16A engine (often not realizing it).  What this page tries to achieve is to clarify some of the doubts when it comes to which B16A is which and hopefully stop retailers passing off first generation B16A’s as later generation (92 and up) B16A’s. Comparing only the JDM motors, the first generation B16A has a lower compression ratio (10.2:1 versus 10.4:1) and makes 160ps instead of 170ps of output power. In addition there was a revision of the cam profile and oiling improvements  in the second (and later) generation B16A engines.   What to look for Japanese market (JDM)  B16A motors are  labelled with a “B16A” stamp. There is NO suffix (e,g, B16A2 or B16A3) like the US, Asian or European counterparts. Hence it isnt easy to tell just by looking at the block stamp. Below is anpicture of a B16A from a 92 JDM EG6 (SIR-II). From the picture, you’ll notice the following. Absence of a PGM-F1 label on the intake manifold. The Intake manifold has no bulge on the back side (side facing the firewall). Connector plugs on the engine harnesses are grey instead of milky white. Absence of vacuum dashpots on the intake manifold and throttle body. MAP sensor is an integral part of the throttle body, not an external one with a tube.
Externally (not seen in this picture) you will also see: Single 4-wire O2 sensor instead of 2 single wire O2 sensors Look at the images below. Both serial numbers start with ‘5′ bit the left one is a later generation B16A and the right one is a first generation B16A (click on the images to magnify them).
2nd generation B16A Grey connectors One 4-wire O2 sensor Hydraulc transmission	First generation B16A Milky white connectors Twin single wire O2 sensors Cable transmission
Things to ignore: Valve covers. It’s too easy to change valve covers. This next picture is from a 94 JDM CRX SiR (EG2) You will notice the same features that tell it apart from a first generation B16A. The differences do not end there. If you open the oil cap, you should be able to see the oil spray bars. The first generation has cast aluminium oil spray bars while the later generation ones are made of extruded aluminium.   Price issues The going price of a first generation B16A varies at around $400-$800. Sometimes this price includes a cable clutch  transmission(Y1/S1/J1). The later generation B16A price is obviously higher, raging from $1500 to $3000. For $3000, expect a hydraulic clutch transmission (YS21) to be included. It has come to our attention that some retailers have tried to pass off the first generation B16A as a late model B16A and hence selling them for much more than they are worth. Please be very aware when buying these motors.

Information Source: www.hybridgarage.com

Honda DOHC VTEC Camshaft Installation

DOHC VTEC Camshaft Installation

by Adrian Teo
06/15/1998

Finally, my Civic Type-R cams arrived from Japan (thanks to Eric) and I was eager to see how much of a difference they made. Eric, too had a set for himself and was itching to do the same. So, armed with the right tools we set out to do both cars. But first, there are some issues to clarify. According to Spoon’s race engineers, the valve springs need not be swapped out for the Type-R dual springs if (and only if) the rev-limiter is not raised above that of stock. Well, good for us. We had absolutely no intention to raise our rev-limits any time soon or in the future.
According to the specs, the Civic-R camshafts are slightly different from the Integra Type-R camshafts. Actually the difference is only on the intake side. The VTEC lobe on the intake side has slightly more duration (3 degrees more compared to the Integra Type-R) and the cam profile was bigger and broader. The exhaust cams are exactly the same as the Integra Type-R. The Civic Type-R cams would be the cams of choice as they will allow the engine to breathe much better. In addition, the increased duration on the intake side will allow for better exhaust scavenging.   Tools Required Before you start, make sure you have the right tools. You will need the following: Ratchet and breaker bar Socket extensions 19mm socket 14mm socket 12mm socket 10mm socket 10mm combination wrench or Honda’s tappet adjustment tool. Feeler gauges (0.05″/0.125mm thinnest) High-temp silicone sealant Timing light	IN cams: B16A, B18C1, B16B   EX cams: B16A, B18C1, B16B
Preparation Logically, the first step of the process it to remove the old cams from the engine. So, remove all attachments to the valve cover. This includes the grounding points, the PCV return hose and the spark plug wires. The nuts that hold down the valve cover are then removed. Using a screwdriver, remove the metal/rubber seats from where the nuts were. You don’t want them to fly out when you remove the valve cover. The valve cove should be ready to be removed. Using a thick putty knife to scraper, gently pry the valve cover off along the edge, while taking care not to damage the rubber seal. Go over to the side of the engine and undo the bolts holding down the timing belt cover and remove the top piece of the timing belt cover. Then check to make sure that the timing belt tensioner is locked down (tight) by checking the tensioner bolt. If everything checks out, loosen the bolt that holds down the cam pulley. To do this, press down hard on the cam pulley while breaking the bolt loose (don’t remove it , only loosen). It can be pretty tight and an extra pair of hands will come in handy here. Next, disconnect the two plugs that are connected to the distributor. Then undo the three bolts holding the distributor in and remove the distributor by pulling it off. Put the distributor in a safe place, don’t want to damage it unnecessarily. Last, loosen all the spark plugs (but don’t remove them) so that it will be easier to turn the crank by hand. If you have been following thus far, the valve cover should be off and the camshafts should be ready for removal.
Camshaft Removal With everything removed, the next step will be to remove the camshaft holders. Undo (loosen by 2-3mm) the bolts that hold the two oil spray rails and the cam holders. Next, undo remove the two front(timing belt side) bolts that hold the camshaft seals down. Next, remove the outermost camshaft holder bolts (the ones forming the distributor bracket and next to the VTEC solenoid.
	Next, completely remove the oil spray rails and the three camshaft holders in the middle. Be very careful when removing the middle one as there is an oil channel guide (small metal tube) that fits in the middle of that piece. Take note of which guide came from where and also the orientation and set everything aside in a clean area. Then finally remove the four small camshaft holders . Once everything is out, the far end of the cams should hang loose like the picture on the left.
	Now, before removing the cams, you have to release the timing belt. Lift the camshaft at the free end and slide the timing belt off the cam pulley as the belt tension is released. Next, undo the cam belt pulley bolts and CAREFULLY pull out the cam pulley. Make sure you don’t lose the tiny Woodruff key that keys the pulley to the cam. Again put everything in a proper place so you don’t lose anything. Finally, lift the cam out by the far end and remove it from the cylinder head.
Putting it all Back At this stage, everything is almost ready to be put back together. Using the 19mm socket on 3 extensions, turn the engine over by the crank pulley bolt until the TDC (white) mark on the crank pulley lines up with the timing mark on the lower timing belt cover. Apply an even layer of oil all over the camshafts, except the end where the timing belt pulleys bolt on. After identifying which cam is which (the intake cam has a slot cut on the far end for the distributor) put the new cams into position. The slot for the woodruff key should be pointing upwards. Next, carefully reinstall the cam pulleys with the keys in the right place (again, don’t drop the key down the timing belt cover, a tiny bit of grease helps to hold it in place) and replace the cam pulley bolts (hand tight). If everything is correct, the “up” arrows on the cam pulleys should be pointing upwards. The next step it to put back the timing belt. Making sure that the TDC mark on the crank pulley is still aligned, pull both sides of the timing belt is taut. Keeping the timing belt taut, pull up the far end of both cams and slip the pulley under the timing belt. Putting down the end of the cams should tighten the belt up. If you have done this correctly, the front side of the timing belt (side towards the front of the car) should be completely taut. The crank timing mark should still be aligned and the UP arrows on the cam pulleys should be pointing up while the timing marks on the pulleys (small tick marks on the edge of the pulleys) should line up straight across both pulleys.
The cam holders can now be reinstalled. Making sure you have the cam holders in the right order, put them all back, followed by the oil spray rails. Remember to apply a small amount (not a huge glob) of high-temp sealant on the mating faces of the end camshaft seal hole. The same goes for the opposite end. Finally torque the 12mm bolts down to 2.0-2.4kg-m and the 10mm bolts to 0.8-1.4kg-m. Re-install the distributor and then double check that all the timing marks are correct before proceeding to the final stage.
Finishing Up – Valve Clearances Before the engine can even be started, the valve clearances have to be checked to make sure that they are within specs. To make this process easier, remember to loosen the spark plugs so that it is easier to turn the crank by hand. Remember that valve clearances on a Honda have to be done when the engine is cold so only do this if the engine has had ample time to cool down (3 hours at least). If you have just replaced your cams, it’s time to re-tension the timing belt. Loosen the 14mm tensioner bolt and turn the crank counter-clockwise two turns. The timing belt should be at the right tension at this point of time so go ahead and tighten the tensioner bolt.
Using a 19mm socket on the appropriate number of socket extensions, continue turning the crankshaft counter-clockwise until the engine is TDC at cylinder 1 (remember the up arrows and the tick marks?) With cylinder 1 at TDC, you can now proceed to do the valve clearances. The valve clearance specs (for any DOHC VTEC engine) are as follows: IN – 0.15~0.19mm EX – 0.17~0.21mm
Slip the appropriate sized feeler gauge (I use the smallest one) between the intake side rocker arm and the cam lobe. The gauge should slip in easily. If it does not slip in, don’t force it. Release the 10mm lock nut on the adjustment screw and loosen the adjustment screw with a screwdriver to get more clearance. Next, try sliding the gauge around between the space. There should be a slight amount of drag but the feeler gauge should slide freely, without any resistance. Loosen or tighten the adjustment screw accordingly and once you are happy with it, hold the adjustment screw stationary and tighten the 10mm locknut. This task is difficult with regular tools so I’d recommend you spend $40 on the correct valve adjustment tool available from Honda or Snap-On (what I use). Once this is done, double check by testing the gap again with the feeler gauge, followed by the next bigger size, which should NOT fit.
Once you are done with both the intake valves, move on to the exhaust valves and do the same. Remember to switch to the correct sized gauge. Assuming you have done this properly, you are now ready to move on to the next cylinder. Turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise by 180 degrees (the cam pulleys will turn by 90 degrees) to bring cylinder 3 to TDC. Proceed to adjust the clearances for cylinder 3, before moving on to cylinder 4, then finally cylinder 2, turning the crank by the same amount (180 degrees) before you switch cylinders.
Finally… The final stage of this procedure is to reassemble the last bits and pieces. Apply a small amount of sealant to the sharp corners of camshaft end holders before putting the valve cover back on. Carefully replace the valve cover without cinching the seal and replace all the retainers and nuts that hod the valve cover and finally torque it back into place. Before you forget, re-torque the spark plugs and re-install the plug wires. It’s almost ready. Loosen the three distributor mount bolts (just enough to hold the distributor in place) and turn the top side of the distributor towards the front of the car to fully retard the engine timing. Locate the system test plug (usually a green rubber plug close to the ECU in 5G Civics or in the engine compartment for the 4G Civic/CRX) and short out the 2-pin connector with a paperclip. Double check that everything else is connected correctly then start the engine. Leave the engine to run until it warms up to operating temperature (the fan should come on at least once). In the meantime, hook up the timing light according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once the engine is warmed up, aim and shoot the timing light at the crank pulley and check that the timing mark (middle red mark of the 3 timing marks) lines up with the timing pointer on the timing belt cover. If it falls in front of the pointer, rotate the distributor’s top side towards the rear of the car. This should bring the three timing marks closer to the pointer. Keep rotating the distributor accordingly such that the timing marks line up properly. For the more advanced HP’er, you can go ahead and advance the timing up to 2 degrees ahead of the red mark to optimize power. Once the timing is set, tighten down the distributor and double check the timing again. Finally, stop the engine, remove the jumper wire on the test plug and (optionally) replace the spark plug wire cover. You are now ready for a test drive. Remember to let the new cam seat properly so don’t run at constant or excessively revs for extended periods. Let the engine run through a varied range of RPM’s below 6000 RPM for about 100+ miles. Just don’t get a ticket.
Performance Insights How do they perform? The difference is like night and day. Unlike the stock cams, the power doesn’t taper off as you approach 8000rpm. Instead, the power just keeps coming, especially after 6000rpm. The first time I took it out and floored it on 1st, I hit the rev limiter in a flash! That was even before I put the shorter Type-R FD in (watch for another upcoming tech article). Driving around with the broken in cams, the car exhibits awesome and unbelievable acceleration on the high end (yes, that’s how I drive, VTEC on all day) but the low end cam lobes seem to give improved performance too, but I cannot substantiate this with my butt. Coupled with the shorter ratio 98 Type-R FD, highway onramps and offramps have become extremely entertaining. These cams are the probably best $450 I’ve spent, short of the $500 spent on the shorter 98 JDM Integra Type-R FD. …I wonder what Eric Bauer has to say about his Civic-R cams.

Information Source: www.hybridgarage.com

96-00 Honda Civic Engine Swap Matrix

Here is a basic engine swap matrix to help you determine what parts you will need to drop a Honda engine into your 96-00 Honda Civic.

 

 

Target Car	Source Engine	Parts required from source engine
96-97 Honda Civic	B18C 93-95 B16A 92-95 B18B 93-95	Requires engine, trans, ECU, OBD2 to OBD1 wiring jumper harness, axles, half shaft, shift linkage and 99-00 Civic SI rear engine mount.
	B16A 88-91	Not recommended, cheaper and easier to put 92-95 or 96-00 B16A engine.
	B18C-R 96-97 B16B-R 96-01	Requires engine, trans, ECU, axles, half shaft, shift linkage and 99-00 Civic SI rear engine mount.
98-00 Honda Civic Si	B16A 92-95 B18C 93-95 B18B 93-95	Requires engine, trans, ECU, OBD2 to OBD1 wiring jumper harness, axles, half shaft, shift linkage and 99-00 Civic SI rear engine mount.
	B18C-R 98-01 B16B-R 96-01 B18B 98-01	Requires engine, trans, ECU, axles, half shaft, shift linkage and 99-00 Civic SI rear engine mount.

Nissan ECU Error Codes

Overview of accessing the ECM and Malfunction Codes

Accessing the ECM

The ECM is located in the passenger side footwell. You need to remove 2 rivet type fasteners of the right doorstep in order to get the kick panel out. To remove these, unscrew the center part and pull up on the other part. Two metal screws and another rivet type fastener hold the kick panel to the body of the car. Under the panel, is the ECM with its connector. Remove the two screws at the top and bottom of the ECM and gently turn it to get to the Model Selector and RED L.E.D. Don’t unplug the ECM to do this! There should be a small sticker by the Mode Selector that tells you to turn it clockwise to set the Modes, and to be sure to return it all the way counter-clockwise to the original position when the car is in use. You will also see the RED L.E.D. inside the ECM.
Diagnostics Modes

There are two modes and two conditions for the engine to be in for running diagnostics. All modes are with the Ignition Switch in the ON position.

* Mode I (Engine OFF)- Bulb Check
* Mode I (Engine ON) – Malfunction Warning
* Mode II (Engine OFF)- Stored Self Diagnostic Results
* Mode II (Engine ON)- Exhaust Gas Sensor Monitor

Note: The ECM will automatically return to Mode I when the ignition is switched OFF. When the ECM is changed from Mode II back to Mode I by using the Mode Selector, the malfunction code(s) stored for Mode II will be erased.
Changing Modes

Switching modes is not possbile while the engine is running.

* Turn the Ignition switch ON
* The ECM is now in Mode I
* To switch to mode II:
o Turn the ECM Mode Selector fully CLOCKWISE, hold for at least 2-seconds and then return the Mode Selector to it’s original position. You are now in Mode II.
o (Notes: Return to Mode I by turning the Mode Selector fully CLOCKWISE again, holding for another 2-seconds and turning it back to the original position. Doing this will ERASE any Malfunction Codes that are stored in the ECM for Mode II.)

Reading the Malfunction Codes:

The malfunction modes are indicated by the number of flashes by the RED L.E.D. and the check engine light, you can read either of them, as they both display the same thing. Example: if the red LED flashes once and after a short pause flashes twice, this resembles the number “12″.

Please Note: The following chart was derrived from a 240sx service manual. Your car may be different, so please consult your manual for your car.
Code: Item:
11 Cam Position
12 MAF
13 Coolant Temp
14 Vehicle Speed
21 Primary Ingition signal
25 IACV
31 ECM
32 EGR
33 Primary O2 (fron)
34 Knock Sensor
35 EGR Temp
36 EGRC-BPT Valve
37 Closed Loop
41 IAT
43 TPS
65 Misfire, Cyl. 4
66 Misfire, Cyl. 3
67 Misfire, Cyl. 2
68 Misfire, Cyl. 1
71 Misfire, Random
72 Catalyst System
76 Fuel Injection System
77 Secondary O2 (rear)
82 Crank Position
84 A/T Diagnostics Link
95 Crank P/S Cog
98 Coolant Temp
103 A/T Park/Neutral Switch
105 EGRC Solenoid Valve
111 Inhibitor Switch
112 Vehicle Speed Sensor, A/T
113 A/T 1st Gear Signal
114 A/T 2nd Gear Signal
115 A/T 3rd Gear Signal
116 A/T 4th Gear / TCC Signal
118 Shift Solenoid Valve A
121 Shift Solenoid Valve B
123 Overrun Clutch
124 Torque Convertor Clutch
125 Line Pressure Solenoid Valve
126 TPS, A/T
127 Engine Speed Signal
128 A/T Fluid Temp Sensor

Information Source: www.nissantech.com

Top 5 tips when buying a Japanese engine

In this post I am going to outline the top 5 tips you need to know when buying a Japanese (JDM) engine so you don’t get screwed. Follow these tips are you’ll be fine.

Tip #1: Cheaper isn’t better.
A lot of people look for the cheapest price when shopping around for a used engine. I know they are looking to save money but in the end they end up buying a cheap engine with cheap quality. DO NOT base your buying decision solely on price!!!

Tip #2: Reputation.
Do your homework on the business you want to buy from. Ask around to see what their reputation is like and what customer experience has been in the past. You can also call up the Better Business Bureau to see if they had any complaints. Do searches on Google and Yahoo on that company. Many people post comments on forums and if you see they have a lot of bad comments, maybe it is not the company you should buy from.

Tip #3: Warranty.
Ask the company how long their warranty is and what it covers. Ask them whether they compression test and inspect their engines before they ship the engines. A lot fo shops will tell you they do… but they don’t.  Ask them to provide the results with the engine as proof. A good warranty should be 60 days or more for performance engines and 90 days or more for replacement engines.  Anything less and you should be asking yourself why they offer a shorter warranty, probably because they know their engines won’t last. I have heard of shops offering warranties but when it comes time to fixing a problem, they basically told their customer that it wasn’t their problem.

Tip #4: Pay with a Credit Card.
Never ever pay with a cashiers check or money order.  If you pay with a major credit card you have buyer protection, so if the company tries to screw you, you can do a charge back with your credit card company.  They will do a investigation and if the company is at fault they will make them fess up or you will get your money back.

Tip #5: Call them up.
Call the company you think of buying from. Talk to them and ask questions. Get a feel for what their customer service is like.  You want to buy from a company which is friendly on the phone and takes the time to answer your questions. If they are rude and quick to get you off the phone, think of how they will be if you have a problem you need them to help you with.

Bonus Tip: Dealing with shipping companies.
If you are having the engine shipped to you make sure to inspect it when you receive it. DO NOT SIGN FOR IT UNTIL YOU HAVE INSPECTED IT! If the shipping company damaged any parts during shipping THEY are responsible, not the company who sold it to you. The driver may be pushy but stand your ground and inspect the engine before signing the delivery receipt. If there are damages make sure to write them on the delivery receipt. Then call up the shipping company and file a damage claim. If the damages were not specified on the delivery receipt it makes it almost impossible to file a claim.

Sincerely
Hans007

P.S. Remember when buying anything it is wise to do your homework before you buy. It will usually save you lots of headache. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to contact me.

Honda Transmission Specs

 

B-series Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
S1/J1	JDM B16A X-Si	3.230	2.105	1.458	1.107	0.848	3.000	4.400
Y1; Y1 w/LSD	JDM B16A SiR I	3.166	2.052	1.416	1.103	0.870	3.000	4.266
S4C/Y21	USDM B16A2, B16A3; JDM SiR2, JDM SiR2 w/LSD	3.230	2.105	1.458	1.107	0.848	3.000	4.400
Y80/S80	JDM B16B w/LSD; JDM B18C 96-spec R w/LSD	3.230	2.105	1.458	1.107	0.848	3.000	4.400
YS1	USDM B17A1; JDM B16A X-Si w/LSD	3.307	2.105	1.458	1.107	0.848	3.000	4.400
S1/YS1/A1	USDM B18A	3.166	1.857	1.259	0.935	0.742	3.000	4.400
Y80/S80	B18B	3.230	1.900	1.269	0.966	0.714	3.000	4.266
??	B18B (auto)	2.722	1.468	0.975	0.638	—-	1.954	4.357
S80/Y80; S80 w/LSD, Y80 w/LSD	JDM B18C SiR-G	3.230	1.900	1.360	1.034	0.787	3.000	4.400
S80 w/LSD	JDM B18C Spec-R	3.230	2.105	1.458	1.034	0.787	3.000	4.785
Y80	USDM B18C1	3.230	1.900	1.360	1.034	0.787	3.000	4.400
S80 w/LSD	USDM B18C5	3.230	2.105	1.458	1.107	0.848	3.000	4.400
S80 w/LSD	EDM B18C Spec-R	3.230	2.105	1.458	1.034	0.787	3.000	4.785

 

 

4th Gen D-series Cable Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
L3	88-91 HF	3.250	1.650	1.033	0.823	0.694	2.954 (3.250 Cali)	3.880
L3	88-91 DX	3.250	1.894	1.259	0.937	0.771	3.153	3.880
L3	88-91 Si	3.250	1.894	1.259	0.937	0.771	3.153	4.25
L3	JDM Integra ZXi	3.250	1.894	1.346	1.033	0.771	3.153	4.437
L3	JDM DOHC ZC	3.250	1.944	1.250	0.909	0.878	3.153	3.880
L3	USDM D16A1 Integra NOTE: Will not fit 88-91 D-blocks	3.181	1.944	1.347	1.033	0.823	3.153	4.216

 

5th Gen D-series Hydraulic Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
P20/A000	92-95 Civic CX/VX D15B8/D15Z1	3.250	1.761	1.066	0.853	0.702	3.153	3.250
P20/A000	92-95 Civic DX/LX D15B7	3.250	1.762	1.172	0.909	0.702	3.153	coupe/sedan: 4.058 Hatch: 3.888
P20/B000	92-95 Civic EX D16Z6	3.250	1.900	1.250	0.909	0.702	3.153	4.250
P20/B000	92-95 Civic Si / 93-95 del Sol Si D16Z6	3.250	1.900	1.250	0.909	0.750	3.153	4.250
??	92-95 JDM Civic VTi EG4D15B	3.250	1.900	1.250	0.909	0.750	3.153	4.250

 

6th Gen D-series Hydraulic Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
??	96-00 D16Y5	3.250	1.782	1.172	0.909	0.702	3.153	3.722
??	96-00 D16Y7 Civic DX/LX/CX	3.250	1.762	1.172	0.909	0.702	3.153	coupe/sedan: 4.058 Hatch: 3.722
??	96-00 Civic EX D16Y8	3.250	1.909	1.250	0.909	0.702	3.153	4.250

 

Prelude Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
??	88-91 Prelude	3.166	1.857	1.222	0.906	0.742	??	4.062
??	88-91 Prelude Si	3.166	1.857	1.259	0.935	0.794	??	4.062
?	92-96 Prelude S	3.310	1.810	1.232	0.900	0.710	??	4.062
??	92-96 Prelude Si	3.310	1.860	1.320	1.033	0.801	??	4.270
??	92-96 Prelude VTEC	3.310	1.950	1.360	1.070	0.870	??	4.270
??	97-01 Prelude Si	3.285	1.807	1.266	0.966	0.787	??	4.266
??	91-01 Prelude SH	3.285	1.956	1.344	1.071	0.870	??	4.062

 

S2000 Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	6th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
??	99-03 S2000 F20C	3.12	2.05	1.480	1.160	0.970	0.810	??	4.100

 

RSX/EP3 Civic/CRV K-series Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	6th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
??	RSX Base, EP3 Civic Si K20A3	2.684	1.500	0.984	0.733	0.571	—-	??	4.389
??	RSX Type S K20A2	3.270	2.130	1.520	1.150	0.920	0.720	??	4.389
??	04+ CRV K24	3.533	1.880	1.212	0.921	0.738	—-	??	4.765

Information Source: www.hondaswap.com

How to: Fix an erratic idle

Let me give you some background on my del sol if you haven’t been around long. It will be a year ago in March that I put my JDM B16 SIR II into my del sol. Since the day it went into the car, it would not idle correctly. There was always a surge. The following is a list of steps I took to cure my idle problem.. it took me just shy of a year to get it to work properly, but it’s done!!

1) Check the voltage on your Throttle Position sensor. Sometimes when doing swaps, you have to use your old throttle position sensor because the one that came with the swap is almost always broken. The Honda ECU looks for .5 volts when the throttle blade is closed and 4.5 volts at wide open throttle. You can measure this with the aid of Hondata or an Apexi Vafc, or a handy old voltmeter.

2) Unplug your Idle Air Control Valve (IAC), which is located on the back of the intake manifold. Doing this SHOULD cause the idle speed to increase if it functioning properly. If it does not increase, then you have found your problem… go get a new one. If the idle speed does increase, begin to turn the bypass screw on the throttle body and bring the idle of the car down to like 500-600 rpm, then plug back in your IAC valve. This should bring the speed back to a normal 800 or so rpm. In the event that doesn’t work…

3) Check your ignition timing and make sure it is at the stock spec. Usually 16*… see my article on cam timing.

4) Chances are now that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Trace all of the vacuum lines and make sure there is no leak anywhere. Some people use a little bit of lubricant and spray it on the hoses to watch for bubbles. Personally I have never done this; so try at your own risk. If it still doesn’t idle properly, keep reading.

5) Did your Throttle Body get bored out at all? Is Air bypassing the blade?

6) Another thing that sometimes causes cars to idle poorly is too much fuel. Do you have a Fuel Pressure regulator? Make sure that it has a vacuum reference and that it is within specs at static idle. Honda recommends 30-38 psi. So anywhere within there would be worth a try. To adjust your pressure at static idle, Hondata suggests that you do it without the car running. Turn the key to “ON” and the fuel pump will prime the system, then you can adjust your fuel pressure accordingly.

7) At this point I began to think it was my ECU causing the car to run poorly. I was running a p28 chipped with everything under the sun.. I had it all: skunk2 , mugen n1, jun, visions, spoon… all those reburned programs you can buy. None of them seemed to work. I looked into Hondata. Hondata is the savior of my idle… or so I thought. Apparently no one told me this, but Hondata had a problem running B16’s with p28 ECU’s for some reason. Well after several attempts of having new programs made that ran more lean at idle and generally just wasting my time… I found a lonely sole in Minnesota who had what he claimed was the magical map that fixes the p28/b16 idle problem. He sent it to me… I took it to Tom Payn at www.PaynTechnologies.com and had him write the program to my ECU and presto it’s run great ever since.

The above is just a short list of possible things it could be … but they are all things you can undertake without paying someone else to do it. Good Luck and if you need the hondata idle fix, or have any questions please email me: Pills@hondaswap.com

By: Adam Pilchack

Information Source: www.hondaswap.com