Honda DOHC VTEC Camshaft Installation

DOHC VTEC Camshaft Installation

by Adrian Teo
06/15/1998

Finally, my Civic Type-R cams arrived from Japan (thanks to Eric) and I was eager to see how much of a difference they made. Eric, too had a set for himself and was itching to do the same. So, armed with the right tools we set out to do both cars. But first, there are some issues to clarify. According to Spoon’s race engineers, the valve springs need not be swapped out for the Type-R dual springs if (and only if) the rev-limiter is not raised above that of stock. Well, good for us. We had absolutely no intention to raise our rev-limits any time soon or in the future.
According to the specs, the Civic-R camshafts are slightly different from the Integra Type-R camshafts. Actually the difference is only on the intake side. The VTEC lobe on the intake side has slightly more duration (3 degrees more compared to the Integra Type-R) and the cam profile was bigger and broader. The exhaust cams are exactly the same as the Integra Type-R. The Civic Type-R cams would be the cams of choice as they will allow the engine to breathe much better. In addition, the increased duration on the intake side will allow for better exhaust scavenging.   Tools Required Before you start, make sure you have the right tools. You will need the following: Ratchet and breaker bar Socket extensions 19mm socket 14mm socket 12mm socket 10mm socket 10mm combination wrench or Honda’s tappet adjustment tool. Feeler gauges (0.05″/0.125mm thinnest) High-temp silicone sealant Timing light	IN cams: B16A, B18C1, B16B   EX cams: B16A, B18C1, B16B
Preparation Logically, the first step of the process it to remove the old cams from the engine. So, remove all attachments to the valve cover. This includes the grounding points, the PCV return hose and the spark plug wires. The nuts that hold down the valve cover are then removed. Using a screwdriver, remove the metal/rubber seats from where the nuts were. You don’t want them to fly out when you remove the valve cover. The valve cove should be ready to be removed. Using a thick putty knife to scraper, gently pry the valve cover off along the edge, while taking care not to damage the rubber seal. Go over to the side of the engine and undo the bolts holding down the timing belt cover and remove the top piece of the timing belt cover. Then check to make sure that the timing belt tensioner is locked down (tight) by checking the tensioner bolt. If everything checks out, loosen the bolt that holds down the cam pulley. To do this, press down hard on the cam pulley while breaking the bolt loose (don’t remove it , only loosen). It can be pretty tight and an extra pair of hands will come in handy here. Next, disconnect the two plugs that are connected to the distributor. Then undo the three bolts holding the distributor in and remove the distributor by pulling it off. Put the distributor in a safe place, don’t want to damage it unnecessarily. Last, loosen all the spark plugs (but don’t remove them) so that it will be easier to turn the crank by hand. If you have been following thus far, the valve cover should be off and the camshafts should be ready for removal.
Camshaft Removal With everything removed, the next step will be to remove the camshaft holders. Undo (loosen by 2-3mm) the bolts that hold the two oil spray rails and the cam holders. Next, undo remove the two front(timing belt side) bolts that hold the camshaft seals down. Next, remove the outermost camshaft holder bolts (the ones forming the distributor bracket and next to the VTEC solenoid.
	Next, completely remove the oil spray rails and the three camshaft holders in the middle. Be very careful when removing the middle one as there is an oil channel guide (small metal tube) that fits in the middle of that piece. Take note of which guide came from where and also the orientation and set everything aside in a clean area. Then finally remove the four small camshaft holders . Once everything is out, the far end of the cams should hang loose like the picture on the left.
	Now, before removing the cams, you have to release the timing belt. Lift the camshaft at the free end and slide the timing belt off the cam pulley as the belt tension is released. Next, undo the cam belt pulley bolts and CAREFULLY pull out the cam pulley. Make sure you don’t lose the tiny Woodruff key that keys the pulley to the cam. Again put everything in a proper place so you don’t lose anything. Finally, lift the cam out by the far end and remove it from the cylinder head.
Putting it all Back At this stage, everything is almost ready to be put back together. Using the 19mm socket on 3 extensions, turn the engine over by the crank pulley bolt until the TDC (white) mark on the crank pulley lines up with the timing mark on the lower timing belt cover. Apply an even layer of oil all over the camshafts, except the end where the timing belt pulleys bolt on. After identifying which cam is which (the intake cam has a slot cut on the far end for the distributor) put the new cams into position. The slot for the woodruff key should be pointing upwards. Next, carefully reinstall the cam pulleys with the keys in the right place (again, don’t drop the key down the timing belt cover, a tiny bit of grease helps to hold it in place) and replace the cam pulley bolts (hand tight). If everything is correct, the “up” arrows on the cam pulleys should be pointing upwards. The next step it to put back the timing belt. Making sure that the TDC mark on the crank pulley is still aligned, pull both sides of the timing belt is taut. Keeping the timing belt taut, pull up the far end of both cams and slip the pulley under the timing belt. Putting down the end of the cams should tighten the belt up. If you have done this correctly, the front side of the timing belt (side towards the front of the car) should be completely taut. The crank timing mark should still be aligned and the UP arrows on the cam pulleys should be pointing up while the timing marks on the pulleys (small tick marks on the edge of the pulleys) should line up straight across both pulleys.
The cam holders can now be reinstalled. Making sure you have the cam holders in the right order, put them all back, followed by the oil spray rails. Remember to apply a small amount (not a huge glob) of high-temp sealant on the mating faces of the end camshaft seal hole. The same goes for the opposite end. Finally torque the 12mm bolts down to 2.0-2.4kg-m and the 10mm bolts to 0.8-1.4kg-m. Re-install the distributor and then double check that all the timing marks are correct before proceeding to the final stage.
Finishing Up – Valve Clearances Before the engine can even be started, the valve clearances have to be checked to make sure that they are within specs. To make this process easier, remember to loosen the spark plugs so that it is easier to turn the crank by hand. Remember that valve clearances on a Honda have to be done when the engine is cold so only do this if the engine has had ample time to cool down (3 hours at least). If you have just replaced your cams, it’s time to re-tension the timing belt. Loosen the 14mm tensioner bolt and turn the crank counter-clockwise two turns. The timing belt should be at the right tension at this point of time so go ahead and tighten the tensioner bolt.
Using a 19mm socket on the appropriate number of socket extensions, continue turning the crankshaft counter-clockwise until the engine is TDC at cylinder 1 (remember the up arrows and the tick marks?) With cylinder 1 at TDC, you can now proceed to do the valve clearances. The valve clearance specs (for any DOHC VTEC engine) are as follows: IN – 0.15~0.19mm EX – 0.17~0.21mm
Slip the appropriate sized feeler gauge (I use the smallest one) between the intake side rocker arm and the cam lobe. The gauge should slip in easily. If it does not slip in, don’t force it. Release the 10mm lock nut on the adjustment screw and loosen the adjustment screw with a screwdriver to get more clearance. Next, try sliding the gauge around between the space. There should be a slight amount of drag but the feeler gauge should slide freely, without any resistance. Loosen or tighten the adjustment screw accordingly and once you are happy with it, hold the adjustment screw stationary and tighten the 10mm locknut. This task is difficult with regular tools so I’d recommend you spend $40 on the correct valve adjustment tool available from Honda or Snap-On (what I use). Once this is done, double check by testing the gap again with the feeler gauge, followed by the next bigger size, which should NOT fit.
Once you are done with both the intake valves, move on to the exhaust valves and do the same. Remember to switch to the correct sized gauge. Assuming you have done this properly, you are now ready to move on to the next cylinder. Turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise by 180 degrees (the cam pulleys will turn by 90 degrees) to bring cylinder 3 to TDC. Proceed to adjust the clearances for cylinder 3, before moving on to cylinder 4, then finally cylinder 2, turning the crank by the same amount (180 degrees) before you switch cylinders.
Finally… The final stage of this procedure is to reassemble the last bits and pieces. Apply a small amount of sealant to the sharp corners of camshaft end holders before putting the valve cover back on. Carefully replace the valve cover without cinching the seal and replace all the retainers and nuts that hod the valve cover and finally torque it back into place. Before you forget, re-torque the spark plugs and re-install the plug wires. It’s almost ready. Loosen the three distributor mount bolts (just enough to hold the distributor in place) and turn the top side of the distributor towards the front of the car to fully retard the engine timing. Locate the system test plug (usually a green rubber plug close to the ECU in 5G Civics or in the engine compartment for the 4G Civic/CRX) and short out the 2-pin connector with a paperclip. Double check that everything else is connected correctly then start the engine. Leave the engine to run until it warms up to operating temperature (the fan should come on at least once). In the meantime, hook up the timing light according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once the engine is warmed up, aim and shoot the timing light at the crank pulley and check that the timing mark (middle red mark of the 3 timing marks) lines up with the timing pointer on the timing belt cover. If it falls in front of the pointer, rotate the distributor’s top side towards the rear of the car. This should bring the three timing marks closer to the pointer. Keep rotating the distributor accordingly such that the timing marks line up properly. For the more advanced HP’er, you can go ahead and advance the timing up to 2 degrees ahead of the red mark to optimize power. Once the timing is set, tighten down the distributor and double check the timing again. Finally, stop the engine, remove the jumper wire on the test plug and (optionally) replace the spark plug wire cover. You are now ready for a test drive. Remember to let the new cam seat properly so don’t run at constant or excessively revs for extended periods. Let the engine run through a varied range of RPM’s below 6000 RPM for about 100+ miles. Just don’t get a ticket.
Performance Insights How do they perform? The difference is like night and day. Unlike the stock cams, the power doesn’t taper off as you approach 8000rpm. Instead, the power just keeps coming, especially after 6000rpm. The first time I took it out and floored it on 1st, I hit the rev limiter in a flash! That was even before I put the shorter Type-R FD in (watch for another upcoming tech article). Driving around with the broken in cams, the car exhibits awesome and unbelievable acceleration on the high end (yes, that’s how I drive, VTEC on all day) but the low end cam lobes seem to give improved performance too, but I cannot substantiate this with my butt. Coupled with the shorter ratio 98 Type-R FD, highway onramps and offramps have become extremely entertaining. These cams are the probably best $450 I’ve spent, short of the $500 spent on the shorter 98 JDM Integra Type-R FD. …I wonder what Eric Bauer has to say about his Civic-R cams.

Information Source: http://www.hybridgarage.com

96-00 Honda Civic Engine Swap Matrix

Here is a basic engine swap matrix to help you determine what parts you will need to drop a Honda engine into your 96-00 Honda Civic.

 

 

Target Car	Source Engine	Parts required from source engine
96-97 Honda Civic	B18C 93-95 B16A 92-95 B18B 93-95	Requires engine, trans, ECU, OBD2 to OBD1 wiring jumper harness, axles, half shaft, shift linkage and 99-00 Civic SI rear engine mount.
	B16A 88-91	Not recommended, cheaper and easier to put 92-95 or 96-00 B16A engine.
	B18C-R 96-97 B16B-R 96-01	Requires engine, trans, ECU, axles, half shaft, shift linkage and 99-00 Civic SI rear engine mount.
98-00 Honda Civic Si	B16A 92-95 B18C 93-95 B18B 93-95	Requires engine, trans, ECU, OBD2 to OBD1 wiring jumper harness, axles, half shaft, shift linkage and 99-00 Civic SI rear engine mount.
	B18C-R 98-01 B16B-R 96-01 B18B 98-01	Requires engine, trans, ECU, axles, half shaft, shift linkage and 99-00 Civic SI rear engine mount.

Nissan ECU Error Codes

Overview of accessing the ECM and Malfunction Codes

Accessing the ECM

The ECM is located in the passenger side footwell. You need to remove 2 rivet type fasteners of the right doorstep in order to get the kick panel out. To remove these, unscrew the center part and pull up on the other part. Two metal screws and another rivet type fastener hold the kick panel to the body of the car. Under the panel, is the ECM with its connector. Remove the two screws at the top and bottom of the ECM and gently turn it to get to the Model Selector and RED L.E.D. Don’t unplug the ECM to do this! There should be a small sticker by the Mode Selector that tells you to turn it clockwise to set the Modes, and to be sure to return it all the way counter-clockwise to the original position when the car is in use. You will also see the RED L.E.D. inside the ECM.
Diagnostics Modes

There are two modes and two conditions for the engine to be in for running diagnostics. All modes are with the Ignition Switch in the ON position.

* Mode I (Engine OFF)- Bulb Check
* Mode I (Engine ON) – Malfunction Warning
* Mode II (Engine OFF)- Stored Self Diagnostic Results
* Mode II (Engine ON)- Exhaust Gas Sensor Monitor

Note: The ECM will automatically return to Mode I when the ignition is switched OFF. When the ECM is changed from Mode II back to Mode I by using the Mode Selector, the malfunction code(s) stored for Mode II will be erased.
Changing Modes

Switching modes is not possbile while the engine is running.

* Turn the Ignition switch ON
* The ECM is now in Mode I
* To switch to mode II:
o Turn the ECM Mode Selector fully CLOCKWISE, hold for at least 2-seconds and then return the Mode Selector to it’s original position. You are now in Mode II.
o (Notes: Return to Mode I by turning the Mode Selector fully CLOCKWISE again, holding for another 2-seconds and turning it back to the original position. Doing this will ERASE any Malfunction Codes that are stored in the ECM for Mode II.)

Reading the Malfunction Codes:

The malfunction modes are indicated by the number of flashes by the RED L.E.D. and the check engine light, you can read either of them, as they both display the same thing. Example: if the red LED flashes once and after a short pause flashes twice, this resembles the number “12″.

Please Note: The following chart was derrived from a 240sx service manual. Your car may be different, so please consult your manual for your car.
Code: Item:
11 Cam Position
12 MAF
13 Coolant Temp
14 Vehicle Speed
21 Primary Ingition signal
25 IACV
31 ECM
32 EGR
33 Primary O2 (fron)
34 Knock Sensor
35 EGR Temp
36 EGRC-BPT Valve
37 Closed Loop
41 IAT
43 TPS
65 Misfire, Cyl. 4
66 Misfire, Cyl. 3
67 Misfire, Cyl. 2
68 Misfire, Cyl. 1
71 Misfire, Random
72 Catalyst System
76 Fuel Injection System
77 Secondary O2 (rear)
82 Crank Position
84 A/T Diagnostics Link
95 Crank P/S Cog
98 Coolant Temp
103 A/T Park/Neutral Switch
105 EGRC Solenoid Valve
111 Inhibitor Switch
112 Vehicle Speed Sensor, A/T
113 A/T 1st Gear Signal
114 A/T 2nd Gear Signal
115 A/T 3rd Gear Signal
116 A/T 4th Gear / TCC Signal
118 Shift Solenoid Valve A
121 Shift Solenoid Valve B
123 Overrun Clutch
124 Torque Convertor Clutch
125 Line Pressure Solenoid Valve
126 TPS, A/T
127 Engine Speed Signal
128 A/T Fluid Temp Sensor

Information Source: www.nissantech.com

Top 5 tips when buying a Japanese engine

In this post I am going to outline the top 5 tips you need to know when buying a Japanese (JDM) engine so you don’t get screwed. Follow these tips and you’ll be fine.

Tip #1: Cheaper isn’t better.
A lot of people look for the cheapest price when shopping around for a used engine. I know they are looking to save money but in the end they end up buying a cheap engine with cheap quality. DO NOT base your buying decision solely on price!!!

Tip #2: Reputation.
Do your homework on the business you want to buy from. Ask around to see what their reputation is like and what customer experience has been in the past. You can also call up the Better Business Bureau to see if they had any complaints. Do searches on Google and Yahoo on that company. Many people post comments on forums and if you see they have a lot of bad comments, maybe it is not the company you should buy from.

Tip #3: Warranty.
Ask the company how long their warranty is and what it covers. Ask them whether they compression test and inspect their engines before they ship the engines. A lot fo shops will tell you they do… but they don’t.  Ask them to provide the results with the engine as proof. A good warranty should be 60 days or more for performance engines and 90 days or more for replacement engines.  Anything less and you should be asking yourself why they offer a shorter warranty, probably because they know their engines won’t last. I have heard of shops offering warranties but when it comes time to fixing a problem, they basically told their customer that it wasn’t their problem.

Tip #4: Pay with a Credit Card.
Never ever pay with a cashiers check or money order.  If you pay with a major credit card you have buyer protection, so if the company tries to screw you, you can do a charge back with your credit card company.  They will do a investigation and if the company is at fault they will make them fess up or you will get your money back.

Tip #5: Call them up.
Call the company you think of buying from. Talk to them and ask questions. Get a feel for what their customer service is like.  You want to buy from a company which is friendly on the phone and takes the time to answer your questions. If they are rude and quick to get you off the phone, think of how they will be if you have a problem you need them to help you with.

Bonus Tip: Dealing with shipping companies.
If you are having the engine shipped to you make sure to inspect it when you receive it. DO NOT SIGN FOR IT UNTIL YOU HAVE INSPECTED IT! If the shipping company damaged any parts during shipping THEY are responsible, not the company who sold it to you. The driver may be pushy but stand your ground and inspect the engine before signing the delivery receipt. If there are damages make sure to write them on the delivery receipt. Then call up the shipping company and file a damage claim. If the damages were not specified on the delivery receipt it makes it almost impossible to file a claim.

Sincerely
Hans007

P.S. Remember when buying anything it is wise to do your homework before you buy. It will usually save you lots of headache. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to contact me.

Honda Transmission Specs

 

B-series Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
S1/J1	JDM B16A X-Si	3.230	2.105	1.458	1.107	0.848	3.000	4.400
Y1; Y1 w/LSD	JDM B16A SiR I	3.166	2.052	1.416	1.103	0.870	3.000	4.266
S4C/Y21	USDM B16A2, B16A3; JDM SiR2, JDM SiR2 w/LSD	3.230	2.105	1.458	1.107	0.848	3.000	4.400
Y80/S80	JDM B16B w/LSD; JDM B18C 96-spec R w/LSD	3.230	2.105	1.458	1.107	0.848	3.000	4.400
YS1	USDM B17A1; JDM B16A X-Si w/LSD	3.307	2.105	1.458	1.107	0.848	3.000	4.400
S1/YS1/A1	USDM B18A	3.166	1.857	1.259	0.935	0.742	3.000	4.400
Y80/S80	B18B	3.230	1.900	1.269	0.966	0.714	3.000	4.266
??	B18B (auto)	2.722	1.468	0.975	0.638	—-	1.954	4.357
S80/Y80; S80 w/LSD, Y80 w/LSD	JDM B18C SiR-G	3.230	1.900	1.360	1.034	0.787	3.000	4.400
S80 w/LSD	JDM B18C Spec-R	3.230	2.105	1.458	1.034	0.787	3.000	4.785
Y80	USDM B18C1	3.230	1.900	1.360	1.034	0.787	3.000	4.400
S80 w/LSD	USDM B18C5	3.230	2.105	1.458	1.107	0.848	3.000	4.400
S80 w/LSD	EDM B18C Spec-R	3.230	2.105	1.458	1.034	0.787	3.000	4.785

 

 

4th Gen D-series Cable Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
L3	88-91 HF	3.250	1.650	1.033	0.823	0.694	2.954 (3.250 Cali)	3.880
L3	88-91 DX	3.250	1.894	1.259	0.937	0.771	3.153	3.880
L3	88-91 Si	3.250	1.894	1.259	0.937	0.771	3.153	4.25
L3	JDM Integra ZXi	3.250	1.894	1.346	1.033	0.771	3.153	4.437
L3	JDM DOHC ZC	3.250	1.944	1.250	0.909	0.878	3.153	3.880
L3	USDM D16A1 Integra NOTE: Will not fit 88-91 D-blocks	3.181	1.944	1.347	1.033	0.823	3.153	4.216

 

5th Gen D-series Hydraulic Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
P20/A000	92-95 Civic CX/VX D15B8/D15Z1	3.250	1.761	1.066	0.853	0.702	3.153	3.250
P20/A000	92-95 Civic DX/LX D15B7	3.250	1.762	1.172	0.909	0.702	3.153	coupe/sedan: 4.058 Hatch: 3.888
P20/B000	92-95 Civic EX D16Z6	3.250	1.900	1.250	0.909	0.702	3.153	4.250
P20/B000	92-95 Civic Si / 93-95 del Sol Si D16Z6	3.250	1.900	1.250	0.909	0.750	3.153	4.250
??	92-95 JDM Civic VTi EG4D15B	3.250	1.900	1.250	0.909	0.750	3.153	4.250

 

6th Gen D-series Hydraulic Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
??	96-00 D16Y5	3.250	1.782	1.172	0.909	0.702	3.153	3.722
??	96-00 D16Y7 Civic DX/LX/CX	3.250	1.762	1.172	0.909	0.702	3.153	coupe/sedan: 4.058 Hatch: 3.722
??	96-00 Civic EX D16Y8	3.250	1.909	1.250	0.909	0.702	3.153	4.250

 

Prelude Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
??	88-91 Prelude	3.166	1.857	1.222	0.906	0.742	??	4.062
??	88-91 Prelude Si	3.166	1.857	1.259	0.935	0.794	??	4.062
?	92-96 Prelude S	3.310	1.810	1.232	0.900	0.710	??	4.062
??	92-96 Prelude Si	3.310	1.860	1.320	1.033	0.801	??	4.270
??	92-96 Prelude VTEC	3.310	1.950	1.360	1.070	0.870	??	4.270
??	97-01 Prelude Si	3.285	1.807	1.266	0.966	0.787	??	4.266
??	91-01 Prelude SH	3.285	1.956	1.344	1.071	0.870	??	4.062

 

S2000 Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	6th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
??	99-03 S2000 F20C	3.12	2.05	1.480	1.160	0.970	0.810	??	4.100

 

RSX/EP3 Civic/CRV K-series Tranny Specs

Transmission Name	Engine Counter Part	1st Gear	2nd Gear	3rd Gear	4th Gear	5th Gear	6th Gear	Reverse	Final Drive
??	RSX Base, EP3 Civic Si K20A3	2.684	1.500	0.984	0.733	0.571	—-	??	4.389
??	RSX Type S K20A2	3.270	2.130	1.520	1.150	0.920	0.720	??	4.389
??	04+ CRV K24	3.533	1.880	1.212	0.921	0.738	—-	??	4.765

Information Source: http://www.hondaswap.com

How to: Fix an erratic idle

Let me give you some background on my del sol if you haven’t been around long. It will be a year ago in March that I put my JDM B16 SIR II into my del sol. Since the day it went into the car, it would not idle correctly. There was always a surge. The following is a list of steps I took to cure my idle problem.. it took me just shy of a year to get it to work properly, but it’s done!!

1) Check the voltage on your Throttle Position sensor. Sometimes when doing swaps, you have to use your old throttle position sensor because the one that came with the swap is almost always broken. The Honda ECU looks for .5 volts when the throttle blade is closed and 4.5 volts at wide open throttle. You can measure this with the aid of Hondata or an Apexi Vafc, or a handy old voltmeter.

2) Unplug your Idle Air Control Valve (IAC), which is located on the back of the intake manifold. Doing this SHOULD cause the idle speed to increase if it functioning properly. If it does not increase, then you have found your problem… go get a new one. If the idle speed does increase, begin to turn the bypass screw on the throttle body and bring the idle of the car down to like 500-600 rpm, then plug back in your IAC valve. This should bring the speed back to a normal 800 or so rpm. In the event that doesn’t work…

3) Check your ignition timing and make sure it is at the stock spec. Usually 16*… see my article on cam timing.

4) Chances are now that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Trace all of the vacuum lines and make sure there is no leak anywhere. Some people use a little bit of lubricant and spray it on the hoses to watch for bubbles. Personally I have never done this; so try at your own risk. If it still doesn’t idle properly, keep reading.

5) Did your Throttle Body get bored out at all? Is Air bypassing the blade?

6) Another thing that sometimes causes cars to idle poorly is too much fuel. Do you have a Fuel Pressure regulator? Make sure that it has a vacuum reference and that it is within specs at static idle. Honda recommends 30-38 psi. So anywhere within there would be worth a try. To adjust your pressure at static idle, Hondata suggests that you do it without the car running. Turn the key to “ON” and the fuel pump will prime the system, then you can adjust your fuel pressure accordingly.

7) At this point I began to think it was my ECU causing the car to run poorly. I was running a p28 chipped with everything under the sun.. I had it all: skunk2 , mugen n1, jun, visions, spoon… all those reburned programs you can buy. None of them seemed to work. I looked into Hondata. Hondata is the savior of my idle… or so I thought. Apparently no one told me this, but Hondata had a problem running B16′s with p28 ECU’s for some reason. Well after several attempts of having new programs made that ran more lean at idle and generally just wasting my time… I found a lonely sole in Minnesota who had what he claimed was the magical map that fixes the p28/b16 idle problem. He sent it to me… I took it to Tom Payn at www.PaynTechnologies.com and had him write the program to my ECU and presto it’s run great ever since.

The above is just a short list of possible things it could be … but they are all things you can undertake without paying someone else to do it. Good Luck and if you need the hondata idle fix, or have any questions please email me: Pills@hondaswap.com

By: Adam Pilchack

Information Source: www.hondaswap.com

JDM Honda 4-1 Header Installation Guide

Going 4-1

Well, due to a mix-up, I ended up with a JDM 4-1 exhaust manifold which apparently nobody else wanted. After reading this review, I bet somebody will realize they made a mistake. But its mine now!  The manifold is made by Honda for the Japanese market 98Spec Integra Type R. The header consists of 42mm (1.65″) primaries and a 57.2mm (2.25″) ID collector. The entire header is constructed out of stainless steel and feature mandrel bends.  It also has mount points for the factory heat shield just in case you wanted the stealth look.  Installation of the header was not going to be an easy task because of the huge collector/ball joint assembly. The US Honda exhaust manifolds and aftermarket headers all have 1.75″ collectors. Since this 98 Spec ITR header was 2.25″, it wasn’t just going to bolt on. Hence, the thing lay on my floor for 4 months while I figured out how to sort things out.  Luckily I met someone during a race event who put me in touch with a really cool exhaust guy who R&D’s for Ford SVO.
To cut a long story short, the best option I had was to custom fabricate a catalytic converter that matched up with the collector on the header. This was an easy task for the exhaust guy and he pieced everything together.  What did I have in the end? I decided upon a 2.5″ (63.5mm) free flow race catalytic converter. This converter features an air injection port just in case you fail emissions and you rig up air injection to clean the exhaust emissions up. The guy did a beautiful job on the catalytic converter. Better still, he agreed to make more while continually improving the overall design.
Putting it all together I couldn’t wait to put it all together, but I first had to wrap the header to squeeze every bit of performance out of it. Take note that wrapping headers in shorts is not a good idea. I ended up itching for 3 days due to the fiberglass that was used in the header wrap. I finished the job by applying a ceramic coat on the header and baking it in my roomate’s big oven (no she doesnt know about it). I removed my current DC 4-2-1 and Honda catalytic converter, then installed the new parts in under an hour.
Performance Review Driving around with the new header is like night and day when compared to the DC-Sports one I had in there. The torque band has widened significantly, and feels smooth and even throughout the operating range. There is now a siginificant gain starting at 4000-5000 rpm where you feel the engine pick up. Beyond 5000, the power gains are even more significant. Since installing the JDM header, I keep driving at high RPM’s just because it feels very, very nice.  The cat however is a little buzzy. It sounds like a test pipe and I thought it was due to some rattling. I check around and made some adjustments with no improvement. I took the catalytic converter back to my friend to take a look at it, and he made some changes but the sound was still there. Asking around, we finally figured out that it was a flow related issue; the cat flowed too well!!! Hence, it didn’t mute the exhuast sound as much as the stock 1.75″ catalytic converters do.  The JDM 98Spec Type-R header feels like a big improvement. Next, I’ll be hitting the dyno to get some numbers on how big the improvement is.

92-95 Honda Civic/92+ Acura Integra Engine Swap Matrix

92-95 Honda Civic/92+ Acura Integra Engine Swap Matrix

 

Target Car	Source Engine	Parts required from source engine
92-95 Honda Civic 92-95 Honda Del Sol 92-95 Acura Integra	B18C 93-95 B16A 92-95 B18B 93-95	Requires engine, trans, ecu, axles, half shaft and shift linkage.
	B16A 88-91	Not recommended, easier and cheaper to put B16A 92-95.
	B18C-R 96-01 B16B-R 96-01	Requires engine, trans, ecu, OBD2 to OBD1 wiring jumper harness, axles, half shaft and shift linkage.
	H22A 92-96	Requires engine, trans, ECU, shift linkage, 94+ Integra axles, Motor Mount kit and 94+ Integra GS-R wiring harness.
96-97 Honda Del Sol 96-01 Acura Integra	B16B 96-01 B18C 96-01	Requires engine, trans, ECU, axles, half shaft and shift linkage.
	H22A 92-96	Requires engine, trans, ECU, OBD2 to OBD1 wiring jumper harness, shift linkage, 94+ Integra axles, Motor Mount kit and 94+ Integra GS-R wiring harness.

For Sale: JDM Integra Type-R DC2 Steering Wheel

Here is a gently used Acura(Honda) Integra Type-R DC2 Steering wheel with air bag. Pictures are below, what you see is what you get. I am asking $325 plus S & H. Call Hans at 514-883-0132 to order or for any questions. I offer a 14 day money back guarentee.

Cheers
Hans007

Pictures:

JDM Integra Type-R Steering Wheel Picture 1

JDM Integra Type-R Steering Wheel Picture 1

Installation Guide: Nissan Skyline RB25DET into a 240SX

Hybrid How-To: Engine Swap
 By Dave Coleman
Photography: Dave Coleman

 

What and Why
Rear-wheel-drive cars just have a natural balance, with even weight distribution, lots of grip, clean steering feel uninfluenced by driveline torque, and of course, the ever-present temptation of powerslides. And if you want rear-wheel drive for cheap, the 240SX is virtually untouchable. As far as picking the RB25 instead of the many other engines that will fit the 240SX, we’ve got a whole story. Go read it (page 130).

Picking the Chassis
The S14 was sold in relatively pathetic numbers from 1995 to its quiet demise in 1998. In its last two years, a facelift added more aggressive-looking headlights, but other than that, things were basically the same. By far, the most desirable of the S14s is the SE that came with the five-lug hubs that allow countless brake upgrades (see “Project Silvia Part I,” Nov. ’02) and a viscous limited-slip differential. Option packages were mixed up and confusing during S14 production, so just because you see five-lug wheels, don’t assume you have the limited slip. Turn the wheel, mash the pedal and count the stripes.

A five-lug conversion on an S14 is relatively easy if you start with a four-lug car, requiring only new hubs, rather than the hub/spindle /ball joint mess required on the front of an S13. If you don’t mind the smell of older cars, the 1989 to 1994 S13 is around 300 pounds lighter (depending on options) and nearly identical mechanically. Most of this swap is the same with an S13. Picking the Engine The donor car is an R33 Nissan Skyline GT-S 2.5t. A complete front clip is usually recommended, because the many wiring and plumbing details are easier to work out when the original engine compartment is there for reference. Also, depending on which engine mounts you choose to use, the Skyline front crossmember may be needed. As a bonus, most front clips come with big, four-piston front brakes which will bolt onto a 240 SX if you have the five-lug hubs (or you can have the rotors redrilled to four-lug). The clip for this swap came from Night Szevyn Racing in Seattle, but was shipped to Ridgecrest, Calif., so we could do the swap in 100-degree heat. After all, it’s not work if you aren’t suffering. The earlier, less-expensive R32 Skyline GTS-t engine will also fit, but it’s only a 2.0 liter (RB20DET), so the extra weight of a six cylinder seems somewhat pointless if you don’t get more displacement. Engine Removal and Prep Work If your car has air conditioning, have the system evacuated before removing the engine. Venting freon to the atmosphere is illegal and will give people in Australia sunburns. If you plan on keeping the A/C, it will be easiest to keep the Skyline pump and have the new hoses made to connect the pump to the 240SX air conditioning system. Any A/C shop should be able to handle this by simply crimping new hoses onto the fittings from the Skyline pump. Next, remove the radiator, remove the entire engine wiring harness from the car, disconnect the fuel lines and unbolt the driveshaft. Your life will be easier if you also remove the hood. Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine and leave them in the car. They’ll come pretty close to slipping onto the RB25. The easiest way to remove the drivetrain is from below, crossmembers and all. To do this, remove the bolt holding the steering shaft U-joint in place, unbolt the lower control arms and swing them out of the way, remove the front anti-roll bar and support the car on something other than the crossmember (the frame rails under the footwells will work). Support the engine with an engine hoist and the transmission with a floor jack. Now, unbolt the engine and transmission crossmembers from the car, and lower the driveline to the floor. If you have a low-profile furniture dolly, you may want to set the engine on that. Just remember, the KA24 driveline weighs about 540 pounds with crossmembers and steering rack attached. Hook the engine hoist to the lower radiator core support and lift the nose of the car high enough that you can slide the engine out from below. Now is a good time to clean the engine compartment and possibly even paint it. Check below the master cylinder for peeling paint and repair it now while you can get to it. This is also the time for new fuel hoses and a new 300ZX fuel filter. You should also consider upgrading the fuel pump. The stock fuel pump, if it’s in good shape, may support the stock RB25 for a while, but a tired pump or an increase in boost could be trouble. A Q45 or 300ZX pump will do the job unless you have enormous power goals, in which case, you better be able to figure out fuel pumps on your own. If you bought an entire front clip, you’ll have to pull the RB25 from the clip as well. The belt-driven cooling fan from the Skyline won’t fit the smaller 240SX engine compartment, so go ahead and remove it, along with the fan shroud. While you have the engine on the ground, this is a good time to consider replacing the clutch. The R33 Skyline GT-S 2.5t uses a 240-mm clutch with the same critical dimensions as the non-turbo Z32. A stock Z32 clutch will work, though it may be a little weak if you crank the boost. Jim Wolf Technology also has upgraded units that should handle more than 500 lb-ft of torque. The R34 versions of this engine used a pull-type clutch. You’re on your own finding replacements for that one. Mounting the Engine Now you have to start making decisions. If you’re eating rice and beans just to pay for the engine, you’ll be glad to hear it will bolt in using the R33 crossmember and fit well enough to get you on the road, but the engine will sit a little higher and a little farther forward than is ideal. Some of the hood bracing will have to be removed to clear the throttle body and blow-off valve flange and the shifter will sit about an inch and a half forward of the center of the shifter hole in the floor. The cast-iron downpipe will also interfere with the steering shaft, and the transmission crossmember won’t quite bolt in properly. The severity of the steering shaft interference varies from car to car, depending on how all the manufacturing tolerances stack up, how worn out the mounts are and how bent the car is. In some cases, you may simply need to notch the downpipe a bit, in others, you may need to fabricate a new one. Just remember, the engine will move around when it’s making torque and from cornering loads, so give the steering shaft some room. You don’t want the steering locking up in a moment of hard acceleration and cornering. Both the Skyline and 240SX crossmembers are designed to accept left- or right-hand-drive steering racks, so putting your old rack on the Skyline crossmember is simple. The power steering return line from the 240SX is aluminum and is designed to act as a power steering cooler by running back and forth across the front of the crossmember before returning to the reservoir. The front of the Skyline crossmember is a different shape, however, and the line won’t fit. You have three choices here. Either skip the cooler and run a new piece of power-steering hose from the rack directly to the reservoir (not recommended), install a real cooler, or grab the old aluminum lines with both hands and bend them until they fit. You’ll need to add some adell clamps, zip-ties, or bits of bailing wire to hold the lines in place if you take the third option. The Skyline’s transmission crossmember is nearly identical to the one on the 240SX, but the transmission is longer, so it won’t line up with the holes in the car. Again, you have options. If this is just a show car, file the bolt holes on the transmission mount so it can slide forward on the transmission a half inch or so. Then shove on the flimsy, flexy transmission mount until the center hole on each side of the crossmember (originally a drain hole, not a bolt hole, but it will work) lines up with the rearmost mounting hole on the car. Bolt it on with one bolt on each side (it’s supposed to have two) and go polish something. Oh, sure, the top of the transmission will be jammed up into the top of the tunnel, but that won’t really matter on a show car. Now, if you actually intend to use that big turbo six to make power, two bolts aren’t enough, and having the transmission hitting the tunnel won’t do. Lying in a pool of sweat and gear oil assessing the situation with Brian Flynn of Super Tuner Motorsports (who was doing all the heavy lifting on this particular job), we realized both the height and mounting hole shortage could be addressed with a simple pair of billet-aluminum spacers designed to lower the transmission and relocate the holes simultaneously. He’s going to make the spacers, we’re going to tell you where to get them: http://www.supertunermotorsports.com. There, we’ve done our part. Finally, if you want the engine to sit low enough to clear the hood bracing, the shifter to sit where it used to, the steering shaft not to hit the downpipe and everything to bolt in properly, there’s a third option. McKinney Motorsports in San Diego, Calif., unStable Hybrids in Conyers, Ga., and by the time you read this, probably Super Tuner Motorsports in Ridgecrest, Calif., all make engine mount kits that move the engine down and back about an inch and a half. In addition to making everything fit better, moving the drivetrain, which weighs about 650 pounds, shifts the center of gravity in exactly the right direction. This is also the ideal option if you have an engine, transmission, harness and ECU, but no front clip. Driveshaft The RB25′s transmission is slightly longer, and the output shaft slightly larger than the 240SX, so a new driveshaft is needed. If the Skyline’s driveshaft yoke was included in your clip, slide it into the transmission and shove it all the way forward. Then bolt the stock driveshaft to the differential and let it hang. Measure the distance from the center of the U-joint on the diff to the center of the U-joint on the back of the transmission and–this part is important–subtract 1 inch to allow for driveline movement. Take all the pieces to a driveline shop and tell them “I want this yoke (Skyline) and this rear U-joint (240SX) on a one-piece driveshaft this long (your measurement).” Then give them money (probably a few hundred bucks). If you don’t have the Skyline yoke, you can use one from a twin-turbo Z. If you try to shorten the stock two-piece driveshaft instead of making a new one-piece, it might work. Or the angle of the short front section of the driveshaft may get too steep, leading to a driveshaft failure. It’s your choice. If you’re using McKinney’s mounts, the shop also offers a shortened one-piece driveshaft with larger U-joints that’s ready to install. An RB20DET uses the same size driveshaft yoke as the 240 SX, and is reported to accept the KA24 driveshaft without modification. Cooling The stock 240SX radiator has nearly the same hose locations as the Skyline radiator, though the KA24DE uses a smaller hose than the RB25DET. Making it fit can be as simple as trimming a little from the ends of the Skyline hoses and using an adaptor to fit the 1.75-inch Skyline hose to the 1.75-inch 240SX radiator. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge, as the 240SX radiator was never intended for the thermal load a Skyline engine will put on it. In the long run, an upgrade, such as the Koyo aluminum radiator in our Project Silvia, may be in order. If you got a front clip with an undamaged radiator, the much larger R33 radiator, according to unStable Hybrids, will just squeeze under the stock 240SX hood. Depending on your mounting choice, the belt-driven fan may not fit, so you’ll have to switch to electric fans. The Flex-a-lite Twin Line 320 dual 10-inch fans we used on our Project Silvia (June 2003) have been working well and would be a good choice for this application as well. The S14 heater hoses are also a nearly perfect fit, sliding onto the RB25DET with only minor trimming. Intercooler The stock intercooler is a relatively small side-mount. Inlet and outlet plumbing is through the left front fenderwell. Holes will have to be drilled for the intercooler pipes and for the intercooler mounting bracket. This is not a direct bolt-on, but it’s close. Of course, a front-mount is probably in the plans, so you could always just skip ahead to that. Exhaust There are only two potential issues with the exhaust. First, the aforementioned clearance issues between the steering shaft and the downpipe casting. If this is a serious issue on your car, you may have to make a new downpipe. Super Tuner Motorsports is also making one, so you can buy it from them. If the B-pipe that connects the downpipe casting to the catalytic converter came with your engine (sometimes it comes on front clips, sometimes it doesn’t), it should bolt right up to the 240SX exhaust. You’ll want a bigger exhaust, of course, but at least it won’t have to be custom made. If this B-pipe is missing, Night7 offers a 3-inch B-pipe for about $250. Miscellaneous The throttle cable is long enough to reach the RB25DET throttle body, but it has less free cable at the end than the Skyline cable did. This can be remedied by moving the throttle cable mounting bracket closer to the throttle body with a simple sub-bracket. Assuming you’ve already dealt with the power steering cooler on the return line, there are only two more power steering lines to deal with. Both the high- and low-pressure lines from the KA24 power steering pump will bolt onto the Skyline pump. The high-pressure line will have to loop around on itself a bit, but just tell people it’s a vibration isolation loop and they’ll leave you alone. If the Skyline crossmember and engine mounts are used, you should also be prepared for interference between the front anti-roll bar and the oil pan. Small (3/4 to 1 inch) spacer blocks between the bar’s pivot bushings and the frame rails should solve the problem. Wiring You know all those wires in the Skyline clip? Get them. What you do with them depends on your comfort level with electrons. If you want the cleanest harness possible, send the Skyline and 240SX harnesses to McKinney Motorsports or unStable Hybrids, and they’ll splice the two together, eliminating anything unnecessary and returning a working harness. If you don’t have a harness at all, call McKinney and start crying. McKinney is working with Jim Wolf Technology to run the RB25DET on the VG30DETT ECU from a twin-turbo Z and a modified Z harness. As of this writing, that project is unfinished, but maybe your tears will motivate them to finish. If you hate electrons and just want everything to work as quickly as possible, Night Szevyn Racing suggests removing your dash and transferring both the engine and dash harnesses from the Skyline. You can lay the Skyline dash harness right over the 240SX harness and power them both up with the ignition switch. The terminals on the back of the switch are all labeled with letters, just make sure the five ignition switch wires on the Skyline harness go to the same letters they originally went to. This method will force you to use the Skyline instrument cluster, which sort of fits. It isn’t really the right shape, and none of the mounting bolt holes actually line up, but it kinda wedges into the space allotted. Running two parallel dash wiring harnesses will leave you with a lot of extra wires and plugs, but at least it won’t take much time. The Moment of Truth This is when you think back to the last time you drove your KA24-powered 240 and wonder if you used premium fuel. You’ll need it now. While you’re thinking about that, call every car friend you have and get them to look at your installation and find your mistakes before you start the car. Fire it up and go look for Supras. Swap Basics Chassis: Second-generation (S14) Nissan 240SX It’s rear-wheel drive; what else do you need? OK, how about relatively inexpensive (or dirt cheap if you use the older S13 chassis), surprisingly durable, excellent handling and extensive parts interchangeability with an incredible list of cars. Just look at the parts donors: the earlier 240SX; ’88 to ’02 Silvias; the Z32 300ZX; R32, R33 and R34 Skylines; Infiniti J30 and Q45; and a few obscure JDM sedans we can’t even think of. The S13 and S14 are probably Japan’s most popular sports cars, so every Japanese tuner makes parts for them. Engine: RB25DET It’s from a Skyline, what else do you need to know? OK, how about an indestructible short-stroke, iron-block six with one turbo and lots of potential. The rear-drive Skyline GT-S 2.5t was far more common than the all-powerful and all-expensive GT-R, so front clips are fairly abundant in Japanese junkyards. As importers discover this swap, the supply of engines in the United States should be good. Concerns Including the transmission, the Skyline drivetrain is about 180 pounds heavier than the 240SX drivetrain you’re removing. Consider the effect this will have on performance of any kind. How clean this swap is depends entirely on how much you want to spend. It’s a bolt-in if you’re willing to call pressure-treated pine an “organic carbon-fiber transmission mount,” or it could require custom mounts and a complex hybrid wiring harness if you want everything to be perfect. There are, thankfully, many levels of middle ground.

Leave the heater hoses in the engine compartment when removing the KA24. They fit the RB25 with only minor trimming.   Be prepared to accept more weight with the RB25DET. Fully dressed with both crossmembers and the steering rack attached (but no A/C), the KA24DE weighs about 540 pounds. With two more cylinders, a much beefier transmission and a turbocharger, the RB25DET weighs about 720 pounds. That’s an extra 180 pounds to accelerate, stop and turn. Good thing it makes more power.   The 240SX crossmember (bottom) places the engine mounts near the rear of the crossmember. The R33 Skyline crossmember puts them on extensions hanging off the front. Note also that the steering racks are reversed and the power steering lines are far from interchangeable.   With the steering rack removed, the rack mounts on both sides are identical, making it easy to change from a right-hand- to a left-hand-drive steering rack.   The lower control arm mounts in the groove in the center of the crossmember. Before swapping, we checked that both crossmembers mounted the arm in the same place.   With the steering rack swapped and about five minutes of monkey-bending the power steering lines by hand, we were able to get the power steering cooler to fit the Skyline crossmember. A longer hose connecting the rack to the cooler line will be needed.   The steering U-joint and the downpipe are friendly if you use the R33 crossmember. Your options are to notch the downpipe, which may or may not work, make a custom downpipe, buy a downpipe from Super Tuner Motorsports, have unStable Hybrids make a new downpipe starting with your casting, or use the McKinney Motorsports mounts. If you do notch the stock downpipe, be sure to leave plenty of space, as the engine will move, and your steering is important.This is a good time to check the condition of the U-joint. Ours was sticky and notchy in its movement. The joint will be seeing a lot of heat from the downpipe, so a fresh joint is good preventative maintenance anyway.   With the engine mounted on the crossmember and the car high in the air, it’s a simple matter of calling all your friends and neighbors over to shove your 720-pound drivetrain across the floor so you can lift it up into the engine compartment.   Lifting the engine into the car, it’s easy to crush countless wires and hoses. Be careful.   The transmission crossmember doesn’t exactly line up. By slotting holes and accepting contact between the transmission and the tunnel, you can get one bolt to fit each side. For better fitment, you can use Super Tuner Motorsports’ adaptor blocks, or for a perfect fit, start over with new mounts from them, or from unStable Hybrids or McKinney Motorsports.   If you use the Skyline harness, it’ll have to be rearranged somewhat to put the ECU on the passenger’s side. After the rerouting, three wires will have a hard time reaching their destinations. The mass airflow sensor wire, on the left, must be lengthened (be sure to use shielded wire anywhere it’s used in the stock harness), the O2-sensor wire (center) must either be rerouted or lengthened, and the boost controller wire can either be lengthened, or the vacuum hoses on the boost controller can be lengthened to reach the connector.   If you want to use the Skyline’s dash harness in parallel with the 240SX harness, you’ll end up using the Skyline instrument cluster. It’s not quite the same size as the 240 cluster, it won’t bolt in, but it will fit in the hole and is a tight enough fit not to rattle around much.   Using the stock side-mount intercooler will require some minor drilling in the fender well for intercooler pipe and mounting bracket installation.   The Skyline’s driveshaft yoke (right) is much larger than the 240SX, so you’ll need to use the Skyline part when making your custom driveshaft. If you don’t have one, a twin-turbo 300ZX driveshaft yoke will work.   Japanese battery posts are very small. If you plan to use the Japanese alternator and starter harness, you’ll need to switch the battery terminal.   The 240SX fusebox gets alternator power from this post. You’ll need to cut the connector off the Skyline’s two big alternator power wires and replace it with a post-style terminal.   To check hood clearance, we put duct tape sticky side up on the two highest points of the engine (the throttle body and blow-off valve flange) and closed the hood. Where the tape stuck, we had a problem.   With the hood bracing trimmed like this, there are no more clearance problems.   There isn’t enough free cable at the end of the 240SX throttle cable. A simple extension to move the mounting bracket closer to the throttle body will solve the problem.   Using the R33 crossmember, the shifter will sit about an inch and a half farther forward than the stock one did.